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Pertronix is quality stuff.

I mounted my MSD close to distributor, and I did have to seperate some wiring after install (alt field wires, dist, box) due to some issues. Also had to change some grounds around (away from alt) and added a good ground to alt.

Definitely ! And Standard products are not too far behind. I have three labor claims filed right now for Standard parts that went bad in less than three months.

Like any other shitty dorman part, they may or may not last more than a week. Generic fit. Used them on a customer's G6 last week, seemed to fit fine. It's coming back Monday morning.

I would check voltage at + coil terminal while cranking. 10.5 should still start it. Check for a trigger voltage at coil - terminal while cranking ( test light blinking). If you have both of those, check for spark at coil wire coming out of coil. If no, coil or coil wire bad. If yes, dist cap...

I would choose Petronix over Proform any day.

It's a scam website.

The price from the company in your link is roughly half the price of Jegs and Summit. Gets me a little nervous. Have you dealt with them before ?

Yes, as said above, but to be clear, I would run temporary ground from battery neg terminal directly to tail/ brake socket itself.

Visual check for harness/wires pinched or rubbed through and shorted to ground somewhere. Screws that attach sill panels are possible culprits also. Anywhere harness/wires take tight turns around metal panels can be potential cause.

From your info, it actually sounds like your choke may not be closing versus being slow to open or not opening fully. Check choke when engine fully cold and not running, give throttle a quick, short pump and choke should close fully. BTW, I always run a fused hot wire directly from ignition...

As long as you have an acceptable gauge cable from battery to starter, tapping off from starter for accessories is fine.

Fusible link ??

Sounds like bad voltage supply circuit to relay. If you run directly from the battery to relay B+ terminal (30), and fan works fine, then you will know your B+ supply circuit is at fault.

12 volts at battery with engine running indicates a no charge condition.

I would guess that it just wasn't seated completely and finally just vibrated off. Backfire was probably a result of wire coming loose rather than cause of it. I would make sure terminal is 'spread" open enough to make TIGHT connection into coil tower.

MSD Blaster 2. Modified, 6-AL, Mallory.

You say you already replaced a fusible link, was it located at the bulkhead connector ? If you fried the fusible link at the main power feed to the interior/ignition switch, it may have melted the terminals in the bulkhead connector also. You can also check for power at ignition switch connector...

Probably should check voltage directly at battery with a good DVOM first, to make sure it reads same as in car gauge.

Points replaced and set properly ?