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That's why they invented the recovery system. Some days if it's hot outside or if the car has been driven hard just before being shut off (or getting stuck in traffic) it's going to puke some out. I've got a "manual recovery system" - basically a bottle that it can puke into, which I remove and...

Youtube videos...the ability for anyone to tell the world anything, even if it's wrong.

I was thinking on Monday when I was driving my car whether the heater being partially blocked could cause overheating. The reason this popped in my head was I was struggling to get the car up to 180 degrees and my car only has a 22" radiator with the 4 blade fixed fan and no shroud. It doesn't...

Buying that spacer and fitting it WILL NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. It is not an anti-wobble spacer. Re-reading your story, you say the fan was hitting the radiator when you first bought the car. Maybe whatever that issue was has never been resolved. You say the water pump started leaking "shortly"...

I agree with WileRobby - I was thinking engine mounts too, and whether you've checked clearances etc on all these parts? It would have to be a hell of wobble to hit the radiator, and I can't believe 2 fan clutches are trash out of the box as well as the original. Maybe it's the water pump (but I...

From the tests I've seen they rob a lot of horsepower and will kill you if they break while you're working on a running engine. Also they look ****. Apart from that, they're great.

How much of these cooling problems are due to either modified engines or poor condition of the cooling components (incl. blocked coolant passages)? Did they overheat back in the day when they were new? The reason I ask is I have a 22" factory radiator (re-cored), standard water pump, factory 4...

I found this on the A bodies site for a 440. Should be the same for your 383. Not sure why there are 2 variations.

I haven't got any heater hoses (no heater). I have end stops on the manifold and water pump. Car runs perfectly well at 180 degrees, in winter temperatures (70 degrees) or summer (85-110 degrees).

Sorry I've just noticed I voted No instead of Yes, what a dumbass!

The thermostat allows a car to warm up to operating temperature as quickly as possible. If it's working properly it won't make an engine that's running too hot run any hotter.

Quick update, it was the thermostat. It must have been only partially opening. I swapped in my old 160 degree job (don't know the brand but is stamped "Made in USA", which is reassuring). Runs great now, perfect for the Australian summer! Thanks for all the suggestions.

Thanks for the replies guys. I took it out last night for about 35 mins, mixture of freeway cruising, getting on it, and town traffic, long idling at intersections, didn't budge from 210°, didn't puke when I got home, and didn't feel especially hot when I popped the bonnet after it was switched...

Hi guys, I have an odd temperature issue with my 318 poly. The engine has been completely rebuilt, bored, decked etc, new crank, pistons, cam pretty much everything. New waterpump, original 22" radiator recored, with a fixed 4 blade fan, no shroud, 16 lbs cap. I originally had a 160° thermostat...

I put some small rubber grommets between my original radiator and the support when I reinstalled it after a recore. I just thought it would be good idea, to reduce potential vibration damage. It certainly hasn't had any negative effect.

I don't know what set up you have with the hood and your thoughts on originality, but I've converted my twin hood scoops from fake blanked off scoops, to functioning. They aren't connected to the carb, so no "ram air" type effect, but they let cooler air in during driving and then hot air out...