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It's actually this (this one has 2 separate rotary valves but it can be done with one as per the video)

This isn't a rotary engine like a Wankel though. This is a conventional piston engine but with a different head arrangement to do away with the camshaft and poppet/mushroom valves. Like the guy says at the end, great idea but may not get the investment required due to the direction the industry...

Well, that's what the video is about. Why not watch it?

Just came across this video when watching a member's video of the problems he's having with his car. Unrelated to Mopars but should be interesting for anyone with gasoline in their veins.

You've got a whole heap of repairs ahead of you anyway - I don't see what more damage is going to occur just transporting the car. Rusted steel can hold together for a long time, the front half of the car is not going to just fall off the trailer. Pull it on rear first if you're worried (if you...

I do wet wash mine but not with a hose like a modern car. I just a get a half bucket of water, a cloth and a chamois. I go around the car a panel at a time, wet wipe the dust off that panel and then dry immediately. There's no running water going into gaps, seams etc. I can go around the whole...

Well, if he's buried in it he will have more torque to get to the Pearly Gates quicker.

The block and heads will still be numbers matching. You can keep the original rotating assembly and if someone wanted to put it back as a 440 they could. There will probably be some clearancing done to the block but that's all. I say go for it.

I wouldn't be guessing anything. Get a timing light, check the timing, adjust as necessary. And if that's the full throttle run that causes a hole in the piston...no smiley face then for the OP.

Mate this has been going on for months and lots of suggestions have been made - you need to write them all down and tick them off one by one. Have you got another carb you can swap in temporarily to see if that's the issue? You said your fuel filter was very dirty before this issue occurred...

Move to Australia. The only salt here is in my swimming pool.

Aside from the pun, it actually could be fixed fairly easily if you were handy with a welder or brazer. If not, you could still do most of the work yourself. Cut the top off, level it, and take it to a radiator shop to re-attach it, level and clocked in the correct position.

How about ringing Borgeson or their agents? I could understand asking a forum if it was after hours and you needed an urgent answer but after a month? Call them.

Geoff you are undoubtedly knowledgeable on carburetors but your bedside manner is terrible. 1STMP is 100% correct - if you know so much why not help out instead of your incredibly boring "ditch that POS Holley" that you use every time? You usually sing the praises of Carter AFB's but now it's...

An Oil temperature gauge was standard in the 2005 FPV GT I owned previously. Handy gauge, especially to know when you could really start revving it. The coolant was at operating temperature in 5 minutes but the oil would take 10 or 15. Also handy on the track, if it gets too hot and the oil...

If the rest of the frame checks out then I say go for it. $2,500 isn't much and you could get most of that back (or more) parting it out if the the frame was toast. These cars rust in peculiar ways - that hole in the frame might be the only one, the rest may be solid. But you won't know until...

How is it in primer in one photo and blue in the others? It doesn't look like fresh blue paint either.

Update: I used the JB Weld Extreme Heat paste and put it on the shaft, pushed it back in, then formed a mound right around the outside of the shaft against the manifold. Left it 24 hrs and then drove around the block at idle to fully cure it. Took it for a cruise to the beach this evening and...

Thanks for the kind offer Geoff, there's a guy on the Gold Coast who would do it for me but I'm not pulling the manifold now when I'm getting headers early May. I've bought the JB Weld Extreme Heat Paste and I'll see if that works. I'll also reinforce it with some wire as Terry suggested above.

I haven't got a welder and access is a nightmare as it's on the inside face of the manifold (the block side).