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Nothing wrong with a "Twenty footer" at all. In fact I purposely chose to have a car like that, and everytime I'm out driving it, or in the garage working on it, I'm glad I made that choice. Nothing wrong with a numbers-matching show car either, it takes all sorts to make this hobby what it is...

Those gold Chinese boosters are all the same and all crap. Mine failed after a couple of years. Find a local brake shop (if they still exist over there) and get them to build you a booster using something OEM. Here in Australia a local shop did just that, and used my old crap booster as a guide...

I'd sell the Poly and buy the 413, if it fits (and it's the one in the photo). It looks super cool. There is a market for the Poly, they are gaining a bit of a cult following.

Thinking about it more, I'd be far better off pulling the engine/transmission and doing the whole lot on the garage floor. I'd have to cut a big enough hole in the tunnel to make sure it went back in ok but it would save a lot of headaches.

I've been contemplating this swap for some time, got a few quotes for the supply even, but it's the time it takes that puts me off. I'd be doing the job off jackstands, probably on my own with my son's help. I reckon I would be 6 months screwing around. Love reading about other folks doing it...

I thought the tool used the light just to determine in which direction the alignment was out and which direction it needed correcting. Once it was aligned you wouldn't see any light. I could be wrong though...

What about this Browell tool here that Bio used? Browell Bellhousing Runout and alignment kit. 100% reliable If I ever finally do a manual conversion I think I'd get one as this step in the conversion is the one that worries me the most. Maybe you could sell it after you're done?

You don't happen to own a 1970 Challenger?

It has to come out. You're doing heart surgery - what kind of surgeon would leave old parts in there and just sew her up?

Just make an old man happy and put some extra chocks behind the back wheels and some wood blocks or something under the frame rails as extra security. I always get nervous seeing these big cars sitting up in the air like that just on a couple of jack stands. Don't want to see you get squashed.

An easy assumption to make when your original posts have no interior photos, and the exterior ones you provide show no rear bumper, no hood, no engine...

A local signage shop should be able to make that up quite easily. EDIT. 1 Wild R/T beat me to it. A friend here used to have a "Caution Baby on Board" style sticker in his V8 Falcon. His read "Caution, 351 4V on Board".

Yeah chrome paint is really like an extra shiny silver - you'll never see your reflection in it, that's for sure. I just love restoring stuff when I can instead of replacing.

Here's how mine come up as a home job.

I sprayed mine with rattle can chrome paint. They look great, but depends on your level of restoration. Mine was a driver quality restoration and not show quality.

It was base and then clear. The make was De Beer. I'm a real amateur, have only painted the engine bay once before (in black) and suspension components, k-frame etc, which was all single stage epoxy enamel. Good luck with yours, the good part of painting the engine bay is the engine, brake...

Thanks guys, it's a big relief now it's done. It was nearly a disaster, I thought I had the spray gun adjusted properly (spraying onto a panel of wood) but there were blotches and runs everywhere. I kept going, adjusting the gun while I was spraying, thinking "what the hell, I'm here now", and...

Well after 5 years I've finally painted my black engine bay body color. Took a long time preparing, especially masking everything but it was worth it. It's come out pretty good, a few minor defects and I've probably painted a few things that were meant to be black but I'm very happy!

If there's no significant rust and the interior is good then surely a 4 spd hemi "survivor" car like this would be in the $50-60k range?

My steering box bolts came loose a few times, even at 80 lbs/ft or whatever they are meant to be torqued to. When you go from one direction to the other the box and k-frame must flex slightly which works them loose. I knew the second time it happened - I could feel that dead area when changing...