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It's really not that bad here in Australia. This is a mid-sized spider I had in my office - they love to hide in the files so I'm always wary when I open them. They also like to hide behind your sun visor in the car. You're driving down the road, pull the visor down and the spider jumps out on...

Are you joking or are you serious? In Australia that's a baby. We've got ants bigger than that.

It's a bit misleading - if the car is sitting there doing nothing it's going to be ok for a much longer period than if it's done 100 trips of 1 mile over the last 6 months. That's why they have the mileage/time period, to cover all the drivers who drive to the train station each morning and then...

If you've got enough room to get a ruler in and take a photo then you should have enough room to use a mini hacksaw and cut the head off the bolt or nut. It might be slow work but should get the result.

I'd start by cleaning it all up. Then try an impact gun, so you can concentrate on holding it with vertical pressure with no horizontal (levering) required.

I would use acetone plus the razor, maybe a scotch brite pad lightly to finish.

Wouldn't it be useful to provide your valuable knowledge as to why it's "overkill and not needed"? Usually a combination of tools and techniques are required - this puller looks like a great idea, perhaps used in conjunction with heat and a hammer?

Take it easy gramps, you don't have to shove it down people's throats. I've been using both for 40+ years too but I still prefer Fahrenheit for temps 70+ and Celsius for temps colder than that - it's just the way my brain is wired. I'm about to work on my car right now and it'll be imperial all...

Kw to HP is easy - just multiply by 1.33, or add a third again e.g. 225 Kw x 1.33 = 300 hp. It's not exact, but close enough. I grew up with both imperial and metric and find some stuff easier in one system and other stuff in the other e.g. I automatically know 150 mph is pretty fast, but 180...

The whole slab doesn't need to be 8" (200mm), but needs to be well constructed. The lift supplier will have his own specs, but if not and working in metric (which I assume the German builders will), you should budget for: - Plastic sheeting under the slab to stop damp coming up from the ground...

I've read this too. I think it's because the thread locker is lubricating the threads which changes how far the nut or bolt will turn for any given amount of torque. It's the same for oiled or greased threads. I've never followed it myself though.

Looks good thickness wise, but without trying to be critical, and in case anyone else pours their own slab and looks here for advice, go much heavier on the mesh reinforcement, and drop a reinforcement cage in each thickening for the post locations. This photo is just a slab to park a car on but...

This is very important and often overlooked. Any structure is only as strong as it's foundation. New builds especially should be checked as the builder may have tried to save money with either a thin slab or a waffle pod design which uses polystyrene pods with ground beams between, with only...

I always err on the side of caution - I leave the Jack under there in case the stands fell and the rescuer needed to lift the car off me, Jack stands (heavy duty), plus blocks of wood that I made from an old hardwood beam. Beware if you live in a new house too, there's been stories of Jack...