Search results for query: *

The air bleeds are on the top of the air horn below the air cleaner flange. Little brass plugs with small holes.

In the mid '70's 6 Paks were readily available at very reasonable prices, they usually didn't work real well on the street and very few knew how to tune them. Bio points out a very important point, those end carb mixture screws need attention. On my '69 1/2 end carbs, richening the idle mixture...

You do need to get the float levels correct. If needed replace the needle/seats. Stock jetting is probably pretty close. I found that on the end carbs, taking the end carb idle mixture screw plugs out and richening them slightly 1/8 or 1/4 turn made a big difference. Also on the end carbs the...

Which intake are you using, and which carbs? The '69, 70 & 71 carbs seemed to be very different in what they wanted. A 4BBL will likely take some work too. I spent over two months and at least 100 runs to get my 850DP and TM7 intake dialed in. No instrumentation, computers and O2 sensors back then.

As you look through this thread you can see that 6 Pak's need a lot of tuning attention to run real good. The power valve should not have a real big factor at idle. Try a few. But start with the basics. Float level, idle mixture screws, main jet size. On most stock combinations the end carbs are...

No my 6 Pak's are long gone. If you look under the base plate on the end carbs you can see the screw that sets the throttle blade position. You need to have the end carbs off to see it.

Sorry, stock end carb baseplates have the small screw under the baseplate. This will adjust the blade position at idle. A slight change can make a big difference in idle quality and transition response. Pulling the plugs for the end carb mixture screws is important too, a small change 1/4 turn...

The stock baseplates are really simple to adjust. There is a small screw under of the bottom of the baseplate. It moves the throttle blade. I found that adjustment made a big difference in my 6 Pac carbs response.

Do you think the mods to the dividers would help on a 440/452 inch motor? Are those carbs the Mopar mechanical version end carbs?

I didn't think about them either, just remember the 6 Pak wing nuts were different than my other stock air cleaners and the hardware store nuts I used on other stuff and I used on my other carb combinations. No idea what the "show judges" look for.

That looks like the first 6 Pak I bought. But it wasn't "all original", the center carb had been replaced. But the intake, end carbs and air cleaner assembly appeared to be OEM A12 parts. The air filter was a Mopar part, still had the drain hoses on the base. My recollection of the wing nuts...

I was just making a clarification about the diaphragms. Yes like many tuning adventures, the needle valve adjustment is trial & error, it provides some "fine tuning" without needing to change the springs. And as with many tuning things, they may not remain constant over time. Never considered...

The 2300 Six pak diaphragms are not the same as the 4150/4160. The needle valve deal does work.

I had one setup that used the needle valve in the vacuum line. It was a neat deal. Swapping springs is not tough, but having some added adjustment is nice.

I had good experience using a combination of the '70 center carb with '71 end carbs. Although for some reason the all '70 carbs worked better than the '69 carbs or '71's on my OEM A12 aluminum manifold. This was on a drag car. The end carbs need bit of tuning, richen the idle mixture screws...

Don't recall a washer on my A12 setup. but it was long used. The wing nut was it's own washer.

I do not recall seeing any 6 BBL OEM setup with a chrome top, but experts here will know for sure. The OEM 69 1/2 A12 air cleaners were very heavy too.

To OP, the air cleaner in your pic is NOT an A12. The A12 base looks like the one in post#11. It had a rubber bulge gasket on the top of the perimeter. The wing nuts on mine were like the ones in post#7. The lid was orange, not chrome.

Cam selection is based on use, RPM and cylinder head capability. A 6 Pak with the TF heads and a good .500+ lift cam will get you 500 to 550 HP with the Edelbrock manifold. You need to do the tuning to make it work.

In the mid '70's I picked up a few 6 Paks & 6 Pak carb setups. They were inexpensive because they typically didn't run well on the street in stock form. Tuning is the key. My 1st one was an A12 setup with the aluminum intake, '69 end carbs & a modified 500 in the center. It was converted to...