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I have a 26" aluminum radiator installed in the 22" opening, clutch fan, no shroud, no stat. 500" EDE head, 10.5 CR. One day I drove it in stop & roll cruise for 2 hours 95* air temp. It got to 205 on my gauge Got it out on road at 45 MPH and immediately dropped to 165. At the drag strip in...

I ran an aluminum flex fan on my Coronet drag car. worked OK. Not sure what it would do on the street. My plastic fan with very large but small diameter blades worked really good with the Moroso electric drive on a drag car. Moved a lot of air. I'm sure the one I had would do really well on the...

I've used stainless flex fans on my drag car, worked fine. I ran my motor to 7,000 RPM all the time. I did switch to a plastic fan with a Moroso electric drive with that, worked really great.

I'm betting on loose impeller, if the lower hose is good.

I'd use the 26", even with the 22" small opening. Mine works perfect. Aluminum with 2 row 1" tubes. You may have to try different fan combos.

What T-stat? Full, near top of tank is better, the pump pulls the level down a bit. If the radiator doesn't have the mounts. Make your own, bend some strap & make the mounts.

67coronet, good point, depends on if you have drained the block. I put drain petcocks in my blocks. Just draining from the radiator only drains the top of the motor. On my daily driver I also did check with the hydrometer, get to -30F.

All my 22" radiators took 1 1/2 to 2 gallons straight anti freeze(not pre mix) & as much water as took to be full. You need to run it for a while to get all the air out & top off with water.

OK, I agree.

Although I think a shroud is a good idea. I don't have a shroud on my Satellite, the alum radiator, alum heads, & stock clutch fan, it still works great. Just say'in.

I have a Northern Cooling Systems aluminum radiator. 2 core cross flow 2" 26x20. With my 500" EDE head 10.5 CR motor it barely got to 205* after stop & crawl for 2+ hours. Less than 3 minutes at 50 MPH brought it back to 160*. At the drag strip it is hard to get to 160 before the starting line...

My Satellite has one. 1st one I ever used in my years of drag racing. On the street it does give you a warning if too much slow cruising gets the temp up above 210-220 or so. I have an Autometer Sport Comp electric sensor version. Drilled the new alum pan in the front for the sensor & the ground...

They did sell the aluminum housing through DC in the '70's, but they're not the same part number, not sure about the casting number.

Just took a look at the 2205862 in the attic. The one pictured on ebay appears to have a "77" date on it. Mine has "xx" in what might be the date casting & it's casting number 2536767 corresponds to what Galen Govier lists as the "1965 Hemi" casting number. Might be worth something.

If mine, I wouldn't paint.

Not in my drag racing experience. Or the dyno on my new motor. Hot cylinder heads, cool water jacket.

I'd guess you've homed in on the problem. "Stop leak" can really screw up a radiators performance. I'd sure find another radiator shop if they need to use it after a radiator rebuild. It likely won't screw up the block water flow, sure could on the T stat, water pump should be OK.

Well that's a different deal. A bigger fan sure could help some. My 5 blade clutch fan, aluminum 26" radiator w/no shroud worked great with my 500" aluminum head 10.5 CR motor. Held under 200 for 2+ hours at a few stop & crawl show events at 90*+ temps. Give the 5 blade clutch setup with a...

If you're at 220 you need to look at more than number of fan blades. Radiator condition, T stat, core plug removal & scrape out the crap out of the block.

Teflon paste should cure that. Just enough to fill the threads.