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For many years in my drag cars I ran the Direct Connection SW cable tach & Hemi distributor, great combo. I currently have an Autometer Comp with a shift lite. It's very nice.
Back in the day I used a roller bearing button. I also reinforced the OEM timing cover with a piece of 2" x1/8 flat stock on the outside. I checked the inside every time I took the motors apart. The small rub marks assured me things were OK. This was with my mushroom cam and a couple of rollers...
I tried to find the highest amp battery I could fit. IIRC on my '65 Coronet drag car, battery in the trunk I started with a high amp group 27 and #6 or #4 to the front
sometimes with alt, some times not,12,10 to 11.6 car. Later switched an 8D diesel battery I think with #2 welding cable to the...
The early or mid '70's were some street racing days. My car was a '70 Barracuda Gran Coupe, started as a 383 2BBl, I changed to a DP4B 3310-1 with cheap headers. Many street races. Those poor 351 Mach 1's were so bad. The 340 dusters & Darts would beat me most times. The Chev's were a mixed...
Not my experience with a 727. I used the line lock on the fronts to keep the car in the water box heating the rear tires to the degree i I wanted. Worked for over 25 years, still today.
Most likely driver error. I still don't understand why a line lock on the rear wheels. I'm an old school guy, but I don't get it. I know what my front wheel line lock did for me for over 20 years, heat the back tires, what am I missing?
Seems to me, cam selection is almost always a bit of a guessing game. What looks good on the dyno may not really work at the track. That cam does look really good.
I had a plan for my tie downs. I used a very solid single point in the front, either short chain or short wide strap. In the rear I always used the cross strap method, mostly to the frame keeping the shocks in tight compression. This was very successful for me. It would hold up for very long...
Back in the day when I ran solid rollers in my bracket car, I checked lash about every 50 runs, seldom any change. For SFT on the street I doubt more than once a year is needed.
My suspicion is that the web castings were an attempt to deal with NASCAR needs. IMHO cold weather has nothing to do with thick main bearing webs.
EDIT: They were cast for NASCAR !!!
Lemon, I was thinking the exact same thing, not all 230 castings had the thick webs. No idea what Mopar was doing with casting numbers. Don't recall what the casting number was on my first 400/452 motor. It was a '72 400 out of a Sheriff car. At least 500 hundred runs at 7000+ rpm. Eventually...
I'm sure your machinist knows a lot more than I do. As far as billet rollers, I'm livin in the past.
Hopefully the "high end" core does have better quality.