Search results for query: *

It looks like you will be fine with clearance without the back braces. I run the same girdle cover. I don't think you need those back braces either.

I have always replaced mine with stock rubber. Most of these cars are no longer daily drivers and the rubber will probably out live us. Everyone I know that has done urethane has regretted it and said it does ride more harsh and some say they squeak at times. Unless, you are road racing on the...

I did my front and rear drums on my 70 Road Runner. All of the parts including master cylinder I was able to buy from my local auto parts store. The brakes line I just made myself by using the factory diagrams to get as close looking as factory and as mentioned above I believe it was 3/8-24...

Yes, as mentioned. Buy the whole package. You won't be disappointed.

I run Caltracs and-1" split mono leafs on my Challenger with never any issues on the street or strip.

Mine are also inboard, but with preload and minus 1" split mono-leafs. A little rough on the street but manageable.

For just a street cruiser type car they are not needed.

I did all of these same things to my E Body. Frame ties, mini tubbed and moved springs inboard. It's a 70 Challenger, but similar enough. I don't really have any tips other than measure several time before cutting and always under cut and trim to fit.

I have -1" split mono leafs and 1/2" lowering blocks on my Challenger with 30" tall 315/60/15 drag radials. However, I have them 100% welded around due to the high horsepower application with no issues.

All of my buddies go +1" also. I like them low. My Charger is still stock ride height and I went with -1" on my Challenger since I have 30" tall rear tires.

Been there, done that. My Charger had them on it in the 80's. Brought it back down to normal ride height in the 90's. Even more of a stock look today.

I like them low but not too low, like the purple car pictured. My Charger is original/stock ride height with 295 rear tires. My Challenger does have -1" rear springs and a 1/2" lowering block, but this car does have 315/60/15 drag radials (30" in dia) and it sits Slightly lower than my Charger.

I went the opposite since I mini tubbed mine with 30" tall tires. I went with -1" lowering split mono leafs moved in board to keep it low.

I have a RMS tubular K Frame, tubular upper and lower control arms with coil overs and a manual rack that I drive on the street with no complaints. I can install and remove both side headers with engine installed. I am able to run a 10 quart flat bottom oil pan and it doesn't even hang as low as...

I hate it on my 2012 Challenger R/T. When I hit a bump in the lane that goes all the way across the lane while in the turn like on the freeway. I swear it feels like it self centers while air born over the bump, because the car jerks back and forth over each bump. Doesn't matter if a right or...

They do work. I had them on all my Mopars back in the day. I had major wheel hop in several cars without them.. Again, like most everyone else for the look. Pinion snubbed these days. Pic from the 80's.

I have the RMS kit on the front of my Challenger. Huge weight savings, best thing about it I was able to run a flat bottom 10 qt Hemi dragster pan and plenty of big tube header clearance now also.

Don't take anyone else word for it. 2 different dudes will give you two different measurements. Go out & measure your car yourself where exactly you wanted measured from & to. That way you know it is exactly what you want, cut your steel from there. I have done many frame connectors the same way...

Mine was free. Long story but I am not complaining. This was the only reason I made the change on my Challenger otherwise it would still have all of the stock front suspension under it no matter how fast I go.

I haven't received my Feb in the mail yet? I did receive the first issue they sent out when they revived it.