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I am on my second Braile battery. Only got about 2 years or so out of it. Sent it back for pro rating, tried numerous times for the credit with no reply. My second one does the same thing. Never been real happy with either one. Even stone cold after sitting for a while it struggles to start...

Glove box light has happened to me before also. Switch needed adjustment.

I do the same but with a test light. That way from in the car I can see the light go out when I pull a fuse from inside the car.

We re-wired my entire car with all this. Everything worked perfectly and car fired up first crank once done.

Correct, red for 440 and Hemi. Big money, hard to find these days, and my last few crap out in only a couple years. I started gutting mine and hiding lightweight racing batteries inside of them. Cranks over much faster and think I am on 6 or 7, maybe 8 years now on this one. I believe green were...

I used to like them back in the day. However, no way I would ruin a pair of 68 Charger tail lights to do them these days.

Bulkhead issue on one of my cars before would just kill the car driving down the road. While it is running, wiggle the engine harness bulkhead connector at the firewall. Also, try wiggling the ignition harness plug under the steering column. My current New Yorker had the ignition harness plug...

I have 3 of these lightweight racing batteries hidden inside my stock resto batteries. Yes, they are light from the like 48 lb weight of the resto battery before they were gutted. They also turn the engine over much faster during cranking.

I have that issue on my 70 Challenger however, my reverse light stays on in reverse, neutral, 1, 2 & 3 (RMVB). only goes out in park.

No, that is how many throttle body EFI engines we build as sell every year. We build and sell even more carburetor engines. And, every more custom MPI race N/A, nitrous and boosted engines.

We use hundreds of the FAST 30-3000 kits every year. Yes, we occasionally have issues with one here and there. Your best bet is to call their tech line. Or, if you get the run around. Call Chris Ryan at Comp (FAST) direct. 901-795-2400 ext 4151. He can help you.

My distributor is locked out, no mechanical advance. I use an old cap with a hole drilled inside the number 1 location and adjust distributor accordingly and lock down. Then use the MSD 7531 and Grid to pull timing as needed for traction control and on Spray.

We use literally hundreds of MSD boxes a year and yes occasionally there is a faulty box or distributor once in awhile. We send them back for a rebuild and mysteriously they always run their checks/tests and find nothing wrong and send them back and now they work. (they don't like to admit...

We buy thousands of their alternator and starters per year. It is amazing how many we send back that they diagnose as the customers car was wired incorrectly and causing to much draw or if it has carburetor. The engine back fired and kicked the engine backwards blowing out the bendex of the...

I have one come on automatically at 180 degrees through the Racepak and the second fan I can turn on when in traffic off of the overhead control panel but haven't needed it yet.

They have a "T" handle design to pull them up from. As I show pictured on mine I added the boot covers.

Agreed, not exactly factory looking but I use the same I just added the factory boot covers and cut the 90 degree portion off of the top.

I have this same problem. Even switched the entire turn signal light assembly with another real nice one I had and it still doesn't work.

Yes, if I ever turned on my high beams after about 5 mines all my lights would go out and come back on almost like they were blinking.

Think I posted about mine before. I used cracked backs relay kit on my 70 with no issues. It also eliminated my extremely hot to the touch headlights switch and now keeps my headlights flickering on and off when on high beams. All lights are much brighter.