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My wife's AGM in her Jeep GC lasted 11 years. The starter and the fact that it is her car I just replaced it. In hind sight I should have kept it and cored a really dead POS, oh well. I have a AGM in a couple of cars. They actually are a lead acid battery, just the acid is in a (wait for it)...

If it is a new orange box it probably will not work well in the heat, the transistor on the front is fake and just done with internal circuitry. If it is a older box the ground could be a problem, best to run a ground off mounting bolt to battery.

The mini starters need a considerable cutting, @Scatpack, with a 130 tooth flywheel 10.5" clutch on a big block. Never had a issue with 143 tooth 11" flywheel and or automatic. Studs for starter, fishing bolts in there, holding the starter, and going into aluminum is a PITA.

I'm a little out of my league here. Having only ever put external regulated alternators on Chrysler products. If it is truly a isolated field alternator, a way to check if it works is, put battery voltage to one tab and ground the other and it should full field/ max output. Do not run it like...

I don't think you need any of that connected except the big black wires(one wire alternator) I think someone just ran those wires somewhere because they bought a replacement harness and those would be field wires. Just my guess.

The upgrade is okay with high demands of modern things, fans, A/C, electronics. I just get weary of other people's skills with a direct current system, my paranoia.

If that is what he has he should disconnect both blue and green wires, then the drain would most likely go away Should also bypass the bulkhead connection of the charge wires. 1 the ammeter in our cars is not rated to 100 amps 2 the connectors are a known weak spot on the cars with stock 40/60...

If it is a internal regulated alternator why did they leave the terminals on like that. This is why you don't buy generic GM systems and put them on a Chrysler. Now no one knows wtf you have to do to fix it. Correction, I know how to fix it, but I don't know the manufacturer or PO mindset to fix...

It's a regular isolated field alternator. The flat pack voltage regulator shown in post#5 is were the blue and green go to on a 70 up system. Previous to that the alternator field was grounded to chassis/engine on one side and regulated with other. The green wire going back to ground at the...

I would try another voltage regulator. Beyond that I would look at battery connections. Something it signaling the regulator to charge when it should be relaxing. A voltage drop somewhere or a internal failure in a component.

Lot of amperage in the wires of your system. Reason for relay is to not carry high amperage long distances through multiple compartments. Buy a good fire extinguisher.

Had to be set up for alot of different driving conditions. Beach to mountains, -10 to 100+ all with the bank manager and his family, not a bunch of car enthusiast. Better to give up a little than to have grumpy/griping customers that would not no the difference.

A there is nothing to read except it has been in there a long time. B, is actually pretty good. Heat band on the ground strap is in the bend so it is good, has plenty of miles and could probably pick up a little with a primary side jet increase.

My points are going to love that.

My car is on a single point distributor. If I buy a coil for a 1998 Dodge 1500 (no ballast resistor) I will no longer need a ballast resistor on my '68 Charger?

I agree, they did have a chrome, or gold box for over 6k and up to 10k or something like that. I just thought if the OP is paying for Dyno time using a dist that may not keep up with the combo is not pennywise. I'm on a dual point fwiw.

Stockish Chrysler ECU is only reliable to 6k. They have trouble keeping up at high RPM. I do not know why. Taxing the transistor with more volts and current seems to be asking for trouble. Will bypassing the ballast resistor get you home, sure. I'm assuming your running on Dyno to tune for max...

The 69 and earlier only needs the ground to operate the coil inside the regulator. The ground on the regulator is in no way connected to the field wire. Ground for the field is provided by grounded field terminal on the actual alternator. 70 up that wire leads back to voltage regulator where it...

70 up are isolated field. They technically ground through the regulator case. The electronics inside the 70 up control the grounding at a more infinite level that the contact points on/off switching. If no power in the 70 up regulator it has no connection to ground, hence the term isolated field.

The 69 and earlier are non isolated field, it basically pulses current through the rotor windings to make a magnetic field that spins through the stationary windings to generate alternating current (alternator name). The diodes in the round back, and solid state rectifier in the square back...