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Kwik wire has large lettering on every wire, pretty easy to read and every wire is labeled plus their instructions are very clear and concise telling where every wire starts, ends and what its function is.

First thing to do is clean every contact, you might be surprised what results you get.

I make the BH with all of the same connectors wired to what I have going on in the car. The headlight harness remains pretty much the same, the wiper harness is the same, the motor harness is different depending on what you have going on.

I have done a lot of wiring/rewiring and am in fact right in the middle of rewiring my 71 charger. This will be a long answer so I apologize up front for that. That said here are the basic options; 1. remove the old harness, stretch it out and inspect thoroughly and repair as necessary. Many...

Yeah I would sell it to someone who needs it, I know what it is like to search for some factory part that I can't find.

@Nacho-RT74 That is awesome information, thank you so much for taking the time to post it. From that info it seems like not something that was very common at all. I have the more common blower assembly in my car and I do have 2 speakers, I slightly modified an E Body speaker/blower adapter and...

I also found out that I have a rear defrost switch which I think is actually from a C body. It has a orange light that comes on when rear defroster is on, also it seems to have multiple settings (like 5 or 6) rather than off, low and high. Can anyone confirm this? I have one in my 71 charger...

I use Packard 56 for everything other than the headlights which use a 59, I've never even heard of a 58 until I just read this thread. Not saying what is written isn't true but that in my research and everything I have bought/used has been 56 (again except for the headlight connections). That...

Your information and intent were not lost, I was merely point out that the main typical argument is concerning whether to keep the ammeter or not and/or what risk it may or may not present. I completely agree that in original or near original configuration a vintage Mopar has really no more risk...

From what I have seen in the past the argument is not which side to put a load or how to connect a load (accessories), it has been whether retaining the ammeter and stock wiring was worth the potential risk. This explanation and associated video pretty much reinforce the stance of not having...

Even modern cars with LED headlights typically use relays (I cannot speak for all brands or models).

Yeah thats a great and relatively simple system that should do what you need.

Yeah I looked at their harness pretty hard, I just didn't want to spent $900 for it. I agree on the crimpers, I have like 5 different ones and tend to use them all during a job.

I don't think many kits come with a completely terminated taillight or headlight harness except for the resto ones like those from MH or perhaps another source. The RF kit surely doesn't but that was to be expected. The express kit has plenty of circuits for about anything you could want but the...

I got the express kit which is still in the box, I have not checked the wire colors and to be honest am not overly concerned about that since each wire is labeled.

I went with the RF express kit bc I liked how the wires terminated at the fuse box and I still like this aspect. However, a couple of things I am not overly impressed with are; 1. The kit comes with a brand new GM style headlight switch which is all cool and would probably be good on a street...

I received the kit, its ok but I have to admit I am not overly excited about it. I will probably use it but its going to take some work.

I ordered one of their express kits, so we will see.

Thanks, that is helpful.

Thanks for all of the information. I do not need the rear sockets because I have the originals I can reuse. I have no interest in using a stock/factory harness at all. I am looking to have the fuse panel drop down so that it can be worked with rather than have to crawl under the dash to change...