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I think this thread shows more detail. 1966 Center Console Attachment Points: 4 or 6?

It’s a bit of a pain but I would pull the carb off, drain the fuel, and turn it over upside down with the primary throttle plates closed to the curb idle position (fast idle off) and examine the transition slot at the front of the primary bores. You should only see a square showing below the...

Nothing wrong with 9.6:1 compression, especially with aluminum heads. I suspect you are running a Holley carb? If so are your idle mixture screws responsive to adjustment? It could be that the front throttle blades are open too far and exposing too much of the transition slot, pulling in...

I would be cautious about going to a bigger cam, which could also aggravate your dieseling by requiring more initial advance and higher idle speed. What are the specs on the cam you have now? Pulling the engine down a few hundred rpm with the clutch before turning the key off is the easiest...

The seller made out exceptionally well on the car. I agree 2 years ago that was a $125k car.

Thanks - I bet those were my wages - $1.40 and $1.60. I was probably off a year too, when it went to $1.60. After 55 years your memory starts getting a little contrary and wants to add 5 cents to everything. :realcrazy:

About 1967 I got my first job at 16 running rides in a small amusement park at a whole $1/hr even. In 68 I moved up to grocery sacker, cart runner and bottle return sorter in a grocery store at what I remember was about $1.45/hr. It seems like after about 6 months or in 69 we went to $1.65/hr...

The Peterson Library

My first car and Plymouth in 68. Note the old 60 Fairlane in the garage. That was my Mom's and what I learned to drive in. I think it's overall width was something like 81-1/2' and it had to fit through a 7' wide garage door. It and the door frames had a lot of scars.

Pretty car if you like convertibles and willing to pay the price to drop the top.

Are there not any validation documents on the car verifying it’s real? Maybe not all, but many of these higher dollar cars have been inspected or judged and verified by someone already.

I think the issue maybe that you windows are not supposed to go down below the window wipes. There may be some stops that need to be reset. My 66/67 cars may not be representative of 68 - 70 cars but they park with the upper front corner just slightly poking up in between the inner/outer...

I’m waiting on a back order for my 66 as the ones in it were too far gone to re-use

I rebuilt the original system in my 67 about 10 years ago after the compressor blew a seal on r134. Seems I remember that the old compressors and systems have some pressure issues with r134 unless very carefully charged. Maybe something with the expansion valve or something - I don't know for...

I mis-spoke - I want it to be stamped "C", but it's a "D".

I have a 68 (stamped C) 440 magnum motor in my 67 and I have tried to see if it has a VIN stamped on the rear but so far have been unable to find one. I haven't tried to copy the foundry date. It could be there however, very tough to examine in the car. For some reason I thought I remembered...

This is the best solution. From memory it's the lower hinge point that isn't bushed so replacing the upper bushing and the pin is sort of a half-way repair. http://www.restorick.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DrHingeRebuildKit

Also look for butchered up wiring under dash and in the engine bay and electrical things that don't work.

I did this a long time ago on my GTX and probably was very lucky to not run into any major problems with the coupler. It is a tight getting the box in and out from underneath. Only issue I had was the mount bolts would loosen up after I reinstalled it. I believe I finally put some...

Is it a Mopar Inland shifter or a Hurst shifter. Inland shifters were never tight.