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But, but, but . . . .the shiny paint and chrome!

Bid to $68.5k and no sell. Way too much for the condition. Another $6,000 to just make it safe to drive, or $25k to make it a presentable #2 or #3 car, or $60k to make it a #1 car. And I would still hate to have explain to everyone about the lack of chassis reinforcements and correct VIN...

In spite of my earlier doubts, that the SO number on the fender tag does match the stamping on the radiator frame (recently added picture 104), and with the VIN tag showing a Hemi (even with incorrect rivets) this is pretty good documentation it probably is an original Hemi car. If it’s a...

The car is a question mark to me. Not saying it is or it isn’t real. I would like to see the other areas of underbody reinforcements and the SO number on the radiator support. Maybe a paint shop removed the VIN plate for a repaint and put it back with incorrect rivets. It does appear to have...

Did you notice the lack of torque boxes, starter relay and horn relay bolted directly to the inner fender and the round head pop rivets on the VIN plate?

You might take a look at this car as I have some doubts about it which I’ve expressed. However, I blew my credibility when I went with my foggy memory and confused the fender tag lines while comparing it to another Hemi Charger and misstated the codes for a Hemi 4 speed (need to go to bed at...

The vent window seals are a bit difficult but the roof rail and door weatherstripa are relatively easy. A blunt pop cycle stick works well for nudging the outer rib on the seal into the metal track on the roof. The vent seals require separating the vent window frame. I know it’s possible to...

Black vinyl paint to fix it.

TTI is another option but Accurate is the closest to original. Get prepared for the shipping charges though.

Take it to B-J and probably get $60-70k. But interesting video. Colin is not a social media nutcase - he knows cars.

That was of little help - I forgot about the outer housing and cover with the right under-dash vent. Here is a drawing out of the service manual but I agree with Sam69Sat - I don’t remember a grill on mine either - just the opening to recirculate air With the vacuum operated door.

That is a non-AC box. Now you are going to make me go out to the garage to look at mine to refresh the memory.

Hard to tell from a picture but I think that is reparable by most trim guys. The only thing is getting it to match the other pieces as to repair it will require stripping the old anodizing and polishing it back in bare aluminum. It probably won’t match the rest of it if it’s weathered...

A lot of details and trim in those interiors but they sure are nice looking.

I’m doubtful a lot of them were any closer than that, even when new.

Maybe the car was bumped on the left side in an earlier life and the metal pushed in a little where the bracket sits. Have you looked closely for any sign of that?

It might only work with electrical sender gages but you might be able to modify a metal gage cluster or fabricate one with a piano hinge to fold back and up under the dash bottom edge to hide it from normal view, but to swing backdown for viewing. I don’t recall how much room there is before...

It didn’t hide them but I cast a fiberglass housing and mounted it under the dash after contouring it to the dash surface and painting it interior dash color. Just another approach. Bad picture is all I have at the moment but it’s somewhat visible.

I did the same thing on my 66 Satellite. I use a battery disconnect on the car so not sure how well it’s holding time but it ticks right along when ever it’s powered up. Nice work.

If you have the old core you can send it to Glen Ray for re-coring with a proper copper coil and it will come back with the proper length tones and bolt right in. Might take 2 to 3 weeks but it will fit right.