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I did my 64 Fury. Same basic car. Used the 10.95 kit from Doctor Diff so could keep my 14" wheels. But dont buy the brake lines there. Inline Tube sells a distribution block to split the fonts and backs that bolts perfectly in place of the original. And their lines from the MC to that block work...
This is how I support my Mopars. Jackstand under the front subframe rails. This was my 64 Fury as I was doing the disc brake conversion. I was able to use the floor jack to position the LCA as needed for removing the lower ball joints, as well as supporting the new assembly as it was being put...
Look at his video again. A couple of times, the camera showed that the car was supported by the frame rail on another jackstand. Yes, he did have a stand under the LCA as well. I used the floor jack so I was able to find the "sweet spot" where there was less tension and friction on the bolts so...
TO BE CLEAR: Your original post mentions> "if supporting the weight of the car with jack stands under the lower control arms"...< CAUTION!
You must support the weight of the car by the frame rails. Plus, then support the control arms when unbolting the lower ball joints from the spindle.
If...
Big thing to know FIRST.... Do you have 14" wheels, and do you plan to keep them? Lots of disc kits require 15" wheels to clear calipers. But there is a kit from Doctor Diff that allows retaining the 14" wheels. I used it on my 64 Plymouth.
Watch the coupler while somebody is turning the steering wheel with the engine off. If you see "slack" in the column shaft, that may be your problem. You can also look under the car and watch for slack or movement in the steering linkage joints.
What shape is your steering coupler in? My Dodge pickup got real loose to steer, and it was fine after I repaired the coupler. Dorman made a kit for it.
Also, a worn out idler arm or tie rod end will cause steering play.
Sounds like there is a known issue with the cylinders that should be, or have been, covered by a warranty. But, I have had mine for over a year now. Anyway, I would think Dr. Diff should not sell a defective product like this.... Thanks
Please tell us more about this. I have this aluminum MC from Dr. Diff. Seems like there is always a bit of fluid on top to wipe off when I open my hood. Is there a known issue with these??
Maybe the spider gears broken in the rear differential? I doubt that the brake has enough grip to seize a wheel locked up completely. Sounds like a problem in the rear end!
How does a car with rear wheel drive, and the parking brakes on the rear wheels, cause the tires to squeal from locking up? If the rears are locked, the tires can't slide, but the car won't move either....
Even if flushing? What about rebuilding the cylinders with a kit to replace the rubbers? I wonder if rebuild kits are still sold for master cylinders? Hmmm... Rock Auto?
Yes, I did a search, but most of the brake fluid threads are old. I'm going thru the brakes on my 67 R/T. I just took everything apart, and while there is less than 10K miles on it since I did the brakes before, it has also been over 25 years. There has been some condensation in wheel cylinders...
Do you have 14"wheels? Want to keep them? If so, many disc conversions require 15" wheels. Don't get an unpleasant surprise late in the process. But I recently did a conversion and kept my old 14" wheels by going with the Dr. Diff kit.
I recently did a disc swap on my 64 Fury. YES, get the distribution block! Inline Tube makes one for the early b bodies that bolts right in place of the original block, but splits the lines to the rear away from the two front lines. You really will want this.....
I have never understood the vendors that sell ''kits" to make major modifications with no instructions. That would really piss me off. If there are no instructions, I just consider a kit a bunch of parts that might work together. Or maybe not.... YOU figger it out!
Welcome, and make use of the search function at the top right of the site. I recently did the disc swap to my 64 Plymouth. Searched and researched a bunch before I chose the route I wanted to go.
I went with the kit from Doctor Diff that allowed me to keep the 14" wheels. It went fairly...