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There are a lot of posts on this that have great information. Might want to search in the Electrical forum. Engine harness should also be available from Evans Wiring. I got my 65 harness there and it has all the correct connections. I think there is one choice for the dash harness mentioned...

I have an original that I removed from my /6. It’s yours if you pay shipping. If interested I can post a few pics here and I can make sure it spins. Then PM me for more details.

This is correct. Your ammeter posts should be isolated from the dash frame and the two posts should show continuity. Current passes through the ammeter, and in simple terms it measures amperage, not voltage. There should be isolation washers on the ammeter posts so when you connect the ringlugs...

Printed Circuit Board.

No - the same

Like the Canadian said, read up. The AC and electric fan current does not need to go thru the bulkhead- you should control those with relays. You power the relays via the inside dash wiring but the power can be handled all within the engine bay wiring.

The difference on the early B bulkhead connectors is the power goes to a ring lug screwed to a solid terminal - not thru the typical male/female quick- connect terminals. It’s not about how much capacity the alternator has - it’s about how much current all of your devices will draw.

Or you can conveniently connect it to the + side of the coil. :lol: On the 62-65’s the wiper motor is inside the firewall.

Thanks for posting this. Good to know. Now if you have an electronic distributor, where you don’t have a ballast resistor, where do you connect the choke? :poke:

The easiest way is to disconnect the wires from both terminals and measure the resistance with the Ohms setting on your multimeter. Different manufacturers may have different resistances, depending on make and application but they are typically between about 1 ohm and 5 ohms. If you know the...

Did you check resistance on both ballast resistors to rule them out?

Wanted to go through a cluster gauge problem I had. This is a 65 Belvedere off a fresh restomod. Gauge cluster had been out and placed into a new dash bezel. Dash lights and oil pressure light were working. Gas and temp gauge were not working. Obvious choice is the voltage limiter, right? I had...

Agree with previous post. If your battery is not fully charged (like immediately after you use it to start the car) and your alternator is working properly, the gauge should react immediately when you increase RPM’s and the needle should move to the charge side until the battery is fully charged...

This is excellent info. Finally a clear explanation. I was going to try to work through this as a winter project because of all the conflicting info out there. THANK YOU!!!

D is discharge and C is charge. At idle with a standard alternator, it will likely lean towards D which means your battery is discharging. As you increase RPM’s it should go to the C side and as your battery gets recharged, the needle should be trend towards the center

You should use two nuts on each post. The top nut tightens against the bottom nut. If you don’t have the bottom nut you’ll compress the washer and you might end up shorting the wire to the gauge housing again.

Not only the weatherproof aspect but the way we need to push and twist the bulb to get it in the socket, I wouldn’t want to put that stress directly on the LED’s that are soldered to the circuit boards in the bulbs - you might break the solder joints or rip some LED’s off. I want a cover or...

I think you understand that perfectly. I thought the same thing when I saw some recommendations online to add resistors. Adding resistors corrects the hyperflash problem and the 'bulb out' indicators in cars that monitor the bulb circuit..... But like you said, defeats the purpose of using...

SuperbrightLED’s.com. You can search for all bulbs in your application.

https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/author/tony/ You might find a lot of helpful information here and in his books.