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Congrats and glad you're happy with it. Bottom line is that's all that matters

???

What year car are you working on? On my 69, if you take the radio and ashtray receiver out, it will give you easy access to the nut

It was one continuous piece of rubber from the factory but most aftermarket pieces don't have the lip that extends over the edge into the trunk for that reason because you can't have the lip on the rear portion (the two 25" portions) As far as I know, Steele Rubber is the only place out there...

Your bottom image is the correct positioning but of coarse is glued onto the lip not into the channel. In the diagram, the top image is like the factory seal, the bottom one doesn't have the lip that extends down into the trunk. The lower one is what most repop seal look like but the top image...

yep, this post is pretty old but it's low priority since the car is never in the rain. I usually just use detailer instead of washing it anyway. Almost positive it's the glass seal.

agree. Waiting for better weather on that though

Yeah, my radio doesn't work in the roadrunner. It's load and proud anyway and I would have to crank it up to hear it. Besides, the sound of that 440 is music to my ears :thumbsup:

Didn't that that on 66-67. I just put a hole in my cover

Figured it out. they are aluminum aftermarket for a model A

huh?

Googled it and it's more the correct shape for a model A but still not a perfect match

A friend gave me a box full of stuff and this was in it. Pretty sure it's not Mopar but I have no idea. Anybody?

My car was in good shape to begin with but the paint was tired. I had a local guy do mine at a cost of 7 large but keep in mind that I did not need the engine compartment done and this was not a full blown resto where you paint the under side. They did a super great job but for the 7 grand, he...

Steel rubber has it. That's what I used, pricy but right! https://www.steelerubber.com/

Check this out, should answer your questions https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/is-this-correct-rad-support-black-out.156343/

Use a battery or battery charger for this procedure. Connect ground from battery or negative post of charger to brass ground strap on wiper motor. Jump the P2 terminal to the ground. Connect 12v positive to H terminal. Motor should run on high speed. Connect the L terminal to the resistor...

(1) Disconnect motor leads at bulkhead disconnect. Connect jumper wire from battery positive terminal to brown and red leads in bulkhead disconnect. Connect a second jumper from the green lead to ground. (The ground circuit is completed through the car body). The motor should run continuously...

Good point. The sun is rough on clear

I agree with beeper, the only reason to use single stage is originality.