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It's been a while but if he's still in business, check here on the motor. I bought mine from him, outstanding work. IDK on the switch [email protected] Cell # 980-329-5938

More likely idle mixture side to side. They should be the same on both sides. I disagree with ported vacuum, I run manifold vacuum. I know this is an old debate and all I can tell you is that it works well for me and the logic behind why is sound. You can find it here...

They make what you are looking for. I have them on my car, call them and they'll hook you up

Another vote for firecore

Possibility of them coming back but probably not for a good while. I doubt they will get rid of the tooling and if demand comes back up, they make a run and sell like hotcakes. Supply and demand

Yes it is

Didn't scroll down far enough to see this

UH oh!

Merry Christmas to you!

Yep, bought mine from him. Outstanding!

2 speed only Connect ground from battery or negative post of charger to brass ground strap on wiper motor. CONCEALED 2 SPEED TEST PROCEDURE Jump the P2 terminal to the ground. Connect 12v positive to H terminal. Motor should run on high speed. Connect the L terminal to the resistor...

For a 3 speed only If you do not have the proper functions, 99% of the time it is a ground problem. If you experience this, first run a ground wire from the metal housing on switch to the pin switch for dome light in driver’s door jamb. Run switch again. If you still have a problem run a ground...

Needs full manifold vacuum. Either use a "t" or if you have a port off the intake, that will work. I can't honestly say how it was connected from the factory, the air grabber hood came out in 1970. Any of you 70 and later guys have a specific answer?

Don't think you will have a problem if what you have are good wires. If you have to buy, buy firecore. Best wire out there for the street in my opinion

Done it many times, I set up the back first, then the front but I wouldn't risk it unless it's on a pretty level floor

Take the radio and ashtray receiver out. I just did this, removing the radio will give you a clear view of what you are working on and you can reach it through the ashtray area. My car is a 69 roadrunner so I'm not sure on the 67 but I can imagine it's that different

no, the vacuum advance can attached to the distributor. unplug and cap it when setting initial timing, looking for the highest vacuum reading but likely between 12-14 btdc

advance your timing to 12-14 btdc. If you have a vacuum gauge, connect it before you advance, the highest reading should be close to where you want to be. Test run it there and see what you have and go from there but you do need more timing

Need to know what your timing is set at (initial with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged) also you mentioned changing the ballast resistor, somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure the pertonix ignition doesn't use a ballast resistor

Did you have the problem before the tune up? What is your timing set at?