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Sounds to me like you still have air in the system. If your cross flow radiator is mounted with the pressure cap higher than the engine, the radiator is self bleeding. However, if the radiator is placed lower than the engine, a surge tank or bleed line is required.

I can answer a few questions if the heater core stayed the same style as for 1973. Replace it. They are not that expensive. It took me two times ordering it from Advance before they got the correct one. IIRC it was less than $40 The hardest part was getting the hanger/clip from the cowl...

Hopes this helps. Car's location makes it hard to get good photos.

If no one else gives an answer I will check my pictures on my personal computer (at work right now). I am pretty sure I took some shots of how the cables were run, at least the ones hooked up to the duct dampers. If not I can take pics of the RR still in storage that has not been messed with...

Well that is not going to work, way too wide. Need the belt to be 13/32" wide not 21/32". Back to square one.

Looks like I will have to get the standard size Gates V belts. https://www.ebay.com/itm/133753269263?hash=item1f2450ec0f:g:7DMAAOSw9~NglHz4

Spent the last few hours looking for the correct looking alternator belt and the power steering belt. I can find them for 1972 and earlier but not for 73. There are plenty of top cog and bottom cog belts available but these are not period correct. Anyone have a source?

"New and working correctly" Maybe, even at idle we could expect 10-17 GPM for flow. I am not sure what that flow rate looks like. The coolant can look like it is moving as it should but what is the reference. At cruising speed (60-90 GPM with a high flow pump) the flow is pretty impressive...

Yup!!! Bought a lot of parts over the years that were junk right out of the box! Really tends to piss one off when the part was a two hour job to change and the jobber says, "Okay, here is a new one." Ahhh, that's what you gave me last time.

If your pulley ratio is 1:1 then I would either pull the thermostat and run without it or do what we used to do and put a stainless washer (with a large hole) in its place. Just enough to create a restriction. In the race motors we found the washer method made it run a little hotter, but we...

Have you checked your pulley ratio. In the past, when the motor ran hot, it was often because we were under driving or over driving the water pump. A 1 to 1 ratio was always the best for us. Might want to give it try. Best of luck!

Great, just ordered it. Thanks for the input.

About to order a rebuild kit for my Non A/C 1973 Roadrunner and was wondering what buyers thought about their product after installation. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-A-Body-73-74-75-76-NON-AC-Heater-Box-Restoration-Rebuild-Kit-DMT/360347080218?hash=item53e65c161a:g:d9oAAOSwZjNbZmdm I have...

Need a little help here as I am out of my wheelhouse. I have two '73 RR's that I am trying to save. One (pictured here) is in really good shape except for a tree that fell across the hood. That was okay since that convinced the owner that he needed to sell them before they became part of his...