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A couple pics FOR SALE - Doug Thorley small block headers

On the BB water pump just leave nipple in place and take off bolt behind it last using open end wrench. Leaving bolt trapped behind nipple. After 50 or so years they are not coming out easy if at all.

My vintage M/Ts have held up well. To help seal them up better I ground some metal off by the bolt holes. Stock BB iron heads sealing surface is not totally flat and is a bit raised by the bolt holes. Putting cover on without gasket will show where high spots are that cause a gap that thin...

I'll try raising the rear of the car next time I pull/install engine. For me it is easier to have engine and trans together. I also have a load leveler that helps a lot getting it in. Summit Racing SUM-G1021 Summit Racing™ Engine Load Levelers | Summit Racing Before getting the leveler, would...

Check voltage at coil, if full voltage try different coil. Spark might not be strong enough to fire when cylinder pressure increases. I had to use relay to battery because of old wire had too much resistance causing voltage loss.

Been thinking about getting this kit and ran across these videos of installation. Might help. They also had to shim out and replaced locating pin with longer one.

Wish I saw the Amazon one earlier. Got Lokar after not being able to find correct linkage

You can get away with higher compression and help avoid detonation by using flat top pistons with aluminum heads providing quench and a cam big enough to bleed a little compression at slow speeds currently running 440 with old TRW dome, 906 heads and cam 284/294 @ 0.50. So maybe 11.6 or so on...

Cost of new pistons is not much compared to time and money spent on labor and machine work. I’d also look for another block, more complete and rust free. Would spend a lot of time and money chasing down all the bolts and hardware needed (unless you already have extra on hand).

Another vote for engine leveling sling. makes it so much easier to lift/drop motor and tranny in, almost a one man job. After using it, realized I should have got one sooner.

Sounds like a bad new plug/wire or 2. Been a lot of problems with new parts lately. Try another set or clean old ones. Check resistance in new plug wires with multi-meter, might have a bad one. Does it rev ok without a load and only misfire when under load, might be too wide plug gap or coil...

Springs wear out, need to replace with new cam or at the very least take them off and measure what spring tension is left. They probably have a couple bad from sitting open for a long time.

I've found the 383 runs smoother and has enough power to move a B-Body just fine. 440 gets up to speed faster but 383 likes to stay at higher rpms for extended time. The 440s also had more torque that might stress unibody more.

They go for $500 around here, check to be sure you can use a driveshaft for a car as the tranny often has the wrong output shaft. I tried using one and was not happy with the results, even with different cam the bottom end was soggy from too low of compression. Best to replace pistons.

Question for the Stroker Crowd What are you using for oil pickup, windage tray? 440Source's site says some of the kits can use stock pickup, but have read of others having pickup problems, thanks All for sharing info on your experience.

You’ll be ok with Stock rockers and stock pushrods with no need for machining down valve guides with that cam’s lift and not decking block or shaving heads much. I went with a cam that was also not too wild to avoid expensive valve train parts and be easy on valves spings

Remember reading a test between RB and B of same size with same parts. RB had a bit more power due to intake manifold having more internal volume.

If you had the block hot tanked, the cam bearings were replaced. Block might have a bit of core shift or bearing was damaged being replaced. Had 440 with similar problem that I took back to machinist that replaced bearings.

I have ran a set for 5 years now, 440 with mild hydraulic cam that I don't rev too high. It's possible rods were made in same factory as better known brands. Took a chance, price was too tempting and it's still together and running.

With the HEI mod, be sure you have 12+volts at coil. I had to use relay as I did not have full voltage even with ballast resistor removed.