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Some thoughts... * what rpm are you shifting at ? * Still the Performer rpm Intake ? (they have a very poor Port Match if not corrected depending upon Frt/Rear positioning up to ~15% of 2 ports can be blocked) * What T/Converter are you using ? Just say'in... I'd like to get more info on yours...

IMO, Engine Dyno's are a beautiful thing, not "just" for the invaluable Break-in/Tuning/Proof of Patent product etc. before the Engine goes in the Car..... but when used longer term ? even with basically the same engine builds over & over again ? the things that commonly are taken as "gospel" in...

I still get back Steel Rod 540's/850hp for freshening about every 400-500 pulls that we originally built back in the 1990's, with no discernable Bearing wear whatsoever. I change the Bearings every 2nd freshening(800-1,000 hits) just because. As long as you have good Vertical Clrc and the...

I was an INDY dealer for many years, the reason I stopped being an INDY Dealer was really simple. I got tired of.... and could NOT continue to.... keep Fixing/Repairing the stuff for FREE for my Customers ! Let's face it here... if you are a W.D. Dealer and you bring stuff in for resale to a...

LOTS of good builders, call one up. Dwayne Porter, Best Machine, .... the list could go on and on One of those guys is not taking new builds :-( I chose him a few months ago and got the bad news-although I understand, at that age, there is family and other priorities. I removed his name from the...

OK, so what's the problem here ? I don't understand. Pump Gas small Stroker(493 to 505), pretty much any Aluminum Head Ported or CNC for around 300+ cfm @.600", HR Cam, and your Six Pack setup ? Built for 600+ Pwr & Trq on Pump Gas. Why do you want the Nitrous ? for EXTRA Pwr above the 600+ ...

"back in the day" LOL ! We could run high 9's @ 137-8 mph in a 2950 Lb W/Driver S/Gas Chassis Car, 451 Low Deck, Flat Tappet Cam(.590" Lift) on well Ported Iron 915 Heads using a Torker, But we never Dyno'd back in those days ? More recently, we've used ancient swap meet acquired Torker's on...

As mentioned, by the time you prep another set of irons decently, the costs are prohibitive versus just spending for Eddy's.... with, the added benefit to the Aluminum Head at 10.45:1 will run just fine on Pump 91 Octane, using the most probable very late SS Cams ABDC Intake closing point ? just...

REALLY NICE Engine you built yourself ! Excellent BUILD and moving that B very well ! Very reliable combination. Kinda reminds me of one I originally built back in the mid 90's for a guy up around your CASTROL way ? "Ol faithful" as I later dubbed it.... slammed the hides up around your Castrol...

Good V/Train Geometry is critical, and too controversial to get into here. That said, You can DESTROY the Best Rocker Arm with garbage V/Train geometry, and conversely, the 'el cheapo's can survive just 'puss with excellent geometry.... it's all in the assembly and attention to detail in...

I don't think there is an exact "number" anyone can definitively say X for example, above or below which a Block will break, vrs be fine ? IMO, just far too many factors to longevity at any power level ? * Bobweight of the rotating assembly itself * Balancing factor for the rpm, 50% or slight...

I meant NO disrespect to anyone(not knowing what they are doing), nor their obvious experience having done it(the combo) many times before, obviously, I have NO reason to suspect otherwise ? My only intent for clarity, was to make sure.... as others in this thread have also pointed out.... and...

We Machine EVERYTHING ourselves in house, and we then ASSEMBLE everything we machine in house, and then we DYNO everything we assemble.... NO exceptions ! From bushing Lifter Bores to Boring/Honing W/T Plate, Block Squaring/Milling, Line Boring(main caps) to Line Honing...

Yeah, I guess on a "properly" built motor a guy can most certainly just: * JET it until it quits mph'ing at the track ? that very obviously works ! * shut down thru the traps & tow back to read plugs accurately ? IMO, best way to read. * and if there's a rear main leak just pull it back out of...

OK, I give up.... what page on this 93 page thread are the specifics of just "what" you are building that takes 10 months ? Are parts the issue ? And I thought we were slow ? That's why we always take a chamber mold FIRST for the custom Pistons, not just the HEMI's, even the Wedges nowadays ...

IMO, A Dyno Session is the cheapest investment you will ever make, if for no other reason than piece of mind, comparative to the money already spent ? BTW, NICE ENGINE !

Cut a second 1/4" Keyway in the Crank Snout, 180* around from the factory keyway, if you are going to wick it up a bit with a big rotor 8. BDS, etc., will supply the accommodating Hub. And as already mentioned, no band-aids (Girdle, Caps, etc.) are going to do much to facilitate longevity in a...

Are you going to Dyno the Engine prior to installing ? What I am getting at is this.... it PAYS to DYNO ! because as the power in an Engine goes up, so does the potential for it to seriously harm itself ? if then something, for whatever reason, ain't quite right ? Not to mention of course, the...

4032 Forged alloys are for "small" amounts of Nitrous.... that's what your old TRW's are. If you are going higher Nitrous ? or building a "Nitrous" Engine from scratch 2618 Alloy Forgings are a must.