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I have an original tach. Still works decent. (I certainly wouldn't use to tune a HP engine.) But it's pretty consistent at med to higher rpm.
I do like your choice of an aftermarket solution. Options are great!
(Sorry for steering wheel in the way. But best dash pic I have on my phone. Lol.)
Poor body ground. Especially if you have an upgraded mod like stereo?
This was common with the big sound era of those putting high amp systems into their rides. If can't ground effectively. It will try to ground back at the source.
Lots of alternator fires where regulator is located in the...
Do you know if a '69 AM 8track player fits in a none 8track AM radio plate? Seems to me would need more room? And/or If an additional power wire needed?
My GTX is not close to numbers matching, so looking for options that I would have liked if ordering car way back. Lol. With the full...
I have experience this too. But steadily got worse. Which red flagged the cam. Any coil issue was start/non start. (But have heard of this if coil gets too hot. Would be surprised this time of year)
But he made a timing change before that revinator test? (And wished they did try with an original Orange Mopar box.) I have had 2 on mild street 440 builds in GTX. With no complaints. I run a MSD 6AL with added 2step mods with Rev limitator on a near 700 HP 451. No complaints with that setup...
Depends on how long it sat? Today's fuels evap quicker. And of course carb cars needs to get their bowls filled. When all warmed up? My 440 4 barrel with old orange electronic ignition module fires up on first crank. Cold and sat for a week? A few pumps and about 3-4 full cranks. Maybe even...
Mine works I believe remarkably well for a stock '69 tach? I wouldn't use it to fine tune a performance build? But idles around 1000 rpm. And on a lonely HWY stretch pushed to 6000 RPM while 150 speedo saying buried. (Phone's GPS captured more like 140 MPH.) Doing the math with 3.54:1 rear gear...
If you are restoring to original? (Or near original?) Then it really is the only choice. If you are restomod and/or performance build? I like painless. It easily adds circuits for EFI, Nitrous controllers. Ect.. JMO of course.
Yeah, but while its happening you do feel alone. The alone idiot of the universe? Lol. I guess its why drag racing is somewhat unique in the sporting world. Every session is do or die. There is no "We'll make it up next lap." Or next inning. Or 2nd half.
I was at the track in 1987 with my '69 GTX for a little fun in the sun. I drove the car to that track about 120 miles away. While in the staging lanes it shut down. Lost all electric power to all components. Battery tested fine. Even replaced to test. Nothing. All wires testing ok. But would not...
Does the '69 B-body "Chrysler Solid State" 8-track radio have a different mounting bracket and wiring than the standard AM radio? Or can it swap in fairly easily?
I'm running a MSD 6AL. I should look what available modules are out there. My 451 in a drag race Duster motor build went up about 100 horse. And the timing is certainly more sensitive.
As I think about it. We shouldn't be manually timing an engine at all? (Ignition timing.) They have EFI...
I remember that. And one would think it could even be more favorable with today's builds. I know the electronic ignition does give far better spark consistency. especially at high Rs. But one would also think both could be possible? I was thinking a distributor that has variable timing on a...
I have wondered why MSD has not made a variable distributor? Especially with so many boost and fuel options? Typically a high compression or high boost motor likes more timing at idel. But then asks for timing to be retarded as pressure increases. A poor man's variable timing kit? I know there...
You know it's funny. I've never had an issue with these boxes? I've never tried to put a higher RPM build to them either. Typically gone MSD route. But to throw my 2 cents? 3 for 3 with stock B-bodies.