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Yes, I've been sick. I'm currently trying to get some things restarted, it's slow going.

Dan knows his stuff when it comes to headlights.

That is easier than the bulkhead. :thumbsup:

disconnect the bulkhead connector with your headlight runs and probe each side with a test light. Might let you know which side the issue resides. Lights stay on full beam, it's not a ground hunt. If they are dimly lit, sounds like something electrical may be hunting.

You asked why the CD relay, that is the answer. Initial statement? Do you have me mixed up with the OP. OP found my schematic and asked about the CD relay and whether it was "required". Please post a schematic of how you would do it with a single cut off switch. I'm open to all viewpoints...

The minimum NHRA standard for a race car leaves the cable from alternator to battery hot at all times. When you watch a car burn to the ground because that charge cable remained hot AFTER the cut off switch is thrown, changes your perspective on leaving hot wires anywhere in the car. Once...

Bummed I lost my CNC contact to make these... UGH... Before I had that contact, I used to make them with a hillbilly lathe... a flat vile in a vise, mandrel in a drill, holding a nut with proper ID... Yeah, top shelf machining processes! There are also some raw bushings out there that...

DO NOT attach the OEM black charge wire at your alternator. That needs to be left off. No problem. Just remember that you want to isolate the charge line and battery + from the other side of the cutoff switch/wire to OEM starter relay.

Simple answer, yes. You can remove the CD relay and run the charge cable direct to the battery side of your ford solenoid or battery + teminal. If you are running a VR and all, wire it up OEM normal approach.

unplug the connector from the dimmer switch. Make a jump wire. Turn headlight switch on and jump from the green wire to the red and violet wires one at a time. Violet is low, Red is high. Make sure the lights operate properly before replacing anything. Test the dimmer after doing that...

Any time you can take electrical loads off the factory harness, that's a good thing.

If you got power going to the purple and red wires out of the dimmer switch in both modes, look at the bulkhead next. Headlight dimmer position should not change the other lighting in the car. Are the light grounds up front good?

Check green wire entering your dimmer switch on floor. Check each line out in both positions. If power in and out on both lines, the bulkhead is your next area to test. No power, look at power from the switch connections

2 gauges or steps... not 2 gauge... If you are using an 8ga wire you protect it with a 12ga link. 12-8 = 4 Wire gets LARGER as the numbers get smaller. Inverse relationship.

2 gauges is 4 numbers smaller for what you are working on.

engine off with key in run. Probe each side of the ballast resistor for power and voltage readings. If one side has power and other side is dead, you found at least part of your issue. Both sides dead, look at bulkhead where the brown and blue wires (ign1/ign2) pass and probe there. They...

The ammeter lovers will be in to tell you that you are incompetent and know nothing in a few minutes. :lol: I don't like the mad approach, however, IMO, the bulkhead should be taxed to provide power for loads requested by the cabin. The packard terminals in reality were not dsesigned to carry...

But that is where the thought process of, in which state is the engine usually in when the item I'm powering is in operation should be addressed. Fans are both, which makes it difficult. Stereos can be the same. Headlights, 99% of the time, engine running. AC compressor, engine on Fuel pumps...

which device runs the car? What is the cars voltage in static state, engine off? Same reading with engine running at a reasonable off idle RPM? Hook accessories up, especially high amp draws, at the battery on a OEM charging system mopar and watch the fun as the harness melts itself...

Run them on relays. The benefit of getting that load off the OEM system is very beneficial. Two halogens on high will draw about 8-10 amps total depending on input voltage. You may have cut the load in half.