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I once built a phantom 1967 R/T wagon, complete with 440, 4-speed. I adapted an Inland handle to a Hurst shifter to keep a factory look. The T-bar no longer worked, and I put a spring under the shifter knob to keep it from rattling.

From my experience, use a Wix filter, not Fram. From an earlier post, if a pushrod bends and a lifter pops out of its bore (highly unlikely), you would have NO oil pressure, not just low.

Sometimes people take the guys out of the governor assembly and remove kickdown linkage when installing a manual valve body. This stuff has to be present for a full automatic valve body to work.

Post # 1 is early housing and Post # 2 is later housing. They changed somewhere around 1967. A later housing yet, puts the inlet fitting from the water pump on the passenger side. This works well for putting a Big Block in where a small block used to be.

I think the yellow and green one is a 331. It has the extended block that hardly anything will bolt to. I think this was changed in 1954 to the style of the other engine. I grew up in Southern Ontario tobacco country, and saw a lot of these early Hemi's in irrigation pumps. In dry summers, you...

I always put a glob of grease in the ball socket to hold the ball during assembly.

I need some help identifying this big block 727. I picked it up as a rebuildable core. I have it apart, and this is what I have discovered: 4 gear front planetary, 3 gear rear planetary 4 clutches in both front and rear drums small diameter long spring in kickdown servo, no large diameter...

Transmission flex plate not "flexy" enough?

I always treat all of the studs as if they go into the water jacket, just to be safe.

I used to do lean burn conversion on my own cars using carb and distributor from pickup trucks that did not have lean burn.

Early sway bar bolted to the front corners of the K-frame and the outer ends clamped to the front strut rods. I added one to my 1964 Polara. So, your elderly memory seems to be working fine, John. I have the same affliction.

You should always soak the bands and clutches in transmission oil for 15-20 minutes before installation.

You're welcome, Dave. Dave

1964 and 1965 for 365 h.p. Street Wedge. Cars with it also had front sway bar and 11" brakes. 1963 and early 1964 for 426 Max Wedge; replaced with 426 Hemi in late 1964.

No, it will just take .017" of end drift out of your input shaft.

Lock-up input shaft has a hole through the centre of it, and is not splined to the end.

I wonder if a .100" thrust washer in there would give you clearance on the tapers?

I think someone would buy it, just to change their T-85 3-speed out.

The picture you show is the back of the forward drum, so that should be .062" washer. The .086" washer should be on the front drum support on the rear of the oil pump. If it were missing, your input shaft end drift would really be screwed.

Maybe that is your problem. There should be two of them; a .062" washer between front and rear drum, and .086" between back of oil pump and front of forward drum.