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Well, the best solution would not to have an adapter at all, and have it 3/8 all the way to the pump inlet. Short answer, it shouldn't really matter, neither will corrode or oxidize much.
If you're looking for that exact List number, yeah, hard to find, especially in Europe. If you're looking for a replacement, it's likely a OE Holley 600 cfm with a Mopar throttle lever and a hot idle compensator. There's a bunch of them out there, I see them at swap meets for $10 - $40.
The...
It might be happier at 7 psi. 2300 carbs were known for throttle shaft bind. If it needs a stronger spring to go back down, look for that problem and cure it.
Good advice from Bob and others above. ALWAYS use two wenches - " back up" the fitting. This is actually standard practice.
I'm going to start a new club when I retire -
Society for Building Things As High Quality as they were After World War II.
Correct. Port is known as the "hot idle compensator" You can find them in factory 4bbl Hollys on the side, under a rectangular cover. A little bi-metal strip that opens at some per-determined temperature.
https://www.carburetor-blog.com/knowledge-base/what-does-the-hot-idle-compensator-do/
Folks get so worked up over this. Same old internet story and lack of hearing another opinion.
My silly opinion goes like this: It Depends. The 383 4bbl engine in my 2 owner 69 I rebuilt bone stock. It lights up the tires, shifts hard and quick with the shifter in D and runs wonderfully...
The rods ensure the throttles go closed. If the cam is mild and the vacuum is strong, airflow can pull the carb open with the rod mis-adjusted, then the airflow through the venturi causes the carb to open more. If a diaphragm rips, it results in a vacuum leak and the carb not opening.
In the first post, second pic, it looks like a couple of little bits in the bottom bowl? I'd get a gauge on the fuel inlet and check the pressure, as others mentioned.