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Not necessarily. 15 years ago I did a point conversion on a '71 383 with a Mopar kit. I ran an extra ground right to the battery negative. No help, the box had an oscillation - constant arc from primary + to the secondary tower. Coil was fine, no cracks. A stock box from a parts car cured it.

Taylor

That sounds like heat soak to the coil OR maybe the Orange Box. Where is the Box mounted?

I had a brand new Orange box kit for a 383 that was bad from the start back in 2001 or so. My 71 383 Fury Custom Suburban. I swapped in an old stock black box out of a Duster parts car and it's still running as far as I know. ( Sold it many years ago) The failure behavior was unusual - it...

I've bought a bunch of stuff from Bill & Rose Evans. Always excellent stuff, fantastic quality. M&H might have the factory part number tags? They are the only source for reproduction dash harnesses.

The solenoid is on the starter, the relay is on the fenderwell. The best ting to do is fix what is broken so it doesn't accidentally start in gear.

There was a few topics on this. Whichever one you have, the factory ones are electro-mechanical. If the relay coil is not burnt, a cleaning and careful oiling of the jewels properly ( with a toothpick ) with the correct oil can restore operation. Conversely, if it's in rough shape, there's...

I've seen this problem more and more lately as the mfg of repo parts is more and more from overseas. Do not assume ANY part is good just because it is new.

I had a bad coil that gave a weak spark after about 30 run time. If the car hot-soaked it was worse, but if I parked it with the hood up for 30 min, it was good till it heated up again. Probably not you issue.

Have you checked your plugs after the carb change? Sounds like the warm idle needs adjustment or it's loading up.

If the gas gauge works, and the temp does not, it could be a bad sender if it really is cold. With the power on, briefly ground the sending unit wire at the sender, the gauge should sweep full. The speedo likely would need to go out if it is bad. The tach as well. I suppose the answer to you...

From your drawing - with a voltmeter, the purple wire should have 12v when the key is turned to start. The black wire should have continuity to ground only in park or neutral. Another pair of hands may help.

Post a video. As others said, an original factory clock is an escapement design, with jewels, no less. There would have to be multiple mechanical failures for that to occur, if even possible, with an unaltered factory clock.

I have a Retrosound thumbwheel in my 69 Charger. I bought it second hand on here, or maybe B Body sister site. It takes a bit to but it together and install. The display, knobs, and chassis are separate and you piece it together. It does not install as quickly as a stock radio. I have no...

The relay has NOTHING to do with the glove box light. The pink wire is a constant hot circuit, the plunger makes ground. The terminal on the wire is a maddeningly specific brass connector that forms one side of the pin anchor for the bulb, the other is the plastic portion of the socket.

Yup. If there's some 90's trucks or vans in your local pic-n'-pull, sometimes they are mounted at the fuse box.

Yup, not needed. I think GM needs a provided ground, but Mopar definitely does not.

Add a 1/2 amp fuse inline to the grey wire feeding the clock.

That is in the instructions, if I remember correctly. It means it's working.

Or drill out the rivet and attach a new tab. This actually would require disassembling the horn, as the magnet coil wouldn’t enjoy the metal shavings inside. I see horns in people’s dollar boxes at swap meets. A jumper wire in your pocket and the closest battery gets it tested for function.