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I saw Ron earlier this year. He's ok, had his Plymouth at a local show. He's just not on the computer much lately, he said.

The pics are the answer. Post 3

Rear disc is overkill unless you're doing heavy autocrossing or really want that slight decrease in stopping distance. Maybe if you're daily driving a 69 Hemi Road Runner. I experienced drum fade on my Charger years ago, the second quick stop from 45-50 mph. Pedal was hard as a rock. Swapped...

I have not used that brand, but I’ve had good success with the spray can wrinkle finish paints. A really good wash and prime is important. I let my spray primer dry for a week or so.

Really? Smallest engine in the R/T is the 440, whereas the default mill in the 'Bee is the 383. Way more than just a badge. Then there's the price difference....

Make up bracing and jigs to hold the location of the frame rails, 'cause it looks like you need one or two. Set the car level and make some measurements BEFORE you cut anything. You have to fix the frame first. What do the front rails, crossmember look like?

Welcome to the list. I would do a compression test or a leakdown test on all 8 and see where that goes. Crankcase pressure is not a good thing.

Interesting a reverb was added to a std 2 1/2 watt Music Master AM. Congratulations!

I just googled up your town. Not too far from me - I want to see what Speed Raceway and Axe Throwing is all about. Sound like a no alcohol place. :rofl::rofl:

My kids, the neighbor's kids, young adults in their 20's. Most couldn't care less about any of these cars or what it takes to restore/occasionally drive/ or maintain them. My Charger isn't restored, isn't super pretty, unusual color - T3 Light Bronze. Goes under the radar.

At some point in the future - all these cars will come down in value. The car ISN'T done now, so between 15 and 25 sounds like a good starting point. Whenever I see cars like this i wonder - where's all the hardware? How much does an entire car worth of reproduction hardware cost if it isn't...

There was a semi-easily available dry transfer letters that you could find at Office Depot or Staples. the only other thing I remember is it was made by Avery. I think you cleaned them real good, transferred the letters, and had to do a flat clear coat or something.

Where's KernDog? RC, you stole his job.

How are the bearings on the old failed pumps? How does the lower pulley look while it's running - smooth with no wobble? Friend of mine had a 340 with a bent lower pulley. Belt got tight-loose-tight at a rapid pace while running, took out a water pump before he caught it.

Leave as much original metal as possible. If your quarters are only rusty at the bottom, just use that section.

He’s referring to the curve of the bezel in ‘68. Different car lines had different round bezels in ‘68. I’m not sure of the answer, sorry.

You’ll need help. They’re darn heavy. Two man job.

They are somewhat rare, the 383 4 speeds. I would build it with a 4bbl, light pistons and crank and a really good oiling system. Some info on this site, but the search function isn't great. http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,11152.0.html...

That's likely it. This is a Satellite wagon I assume? The Full-size Fury wagons were odd with the tailgate in 69-71: No outside handle, key only. The only handle is inside. To open, the glass had to be fully down. The latch mechanism was hand altered at the factory by the handle inside -...

Wow. Watch your alignment with all that out. I cut 1/2" EMT as temporary bracing. Looks good. Wagons are still under-appreciated. :thumbsup: