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It might be worth the gasket cost to measure the deck height and know the actual compression. I'd suspect you may be able to reassemble with a thinner gasket and get close to a true 10:1 and pick up power, if it works out that way.
It might be "G". I believe the slants were eliminated form the option sheet, as others alluded to. Fender tag will tell the story. Maybe the OP can post a pic.
I've taken apart factory cars with huge gobs of seam sealer there, covering a big gap. Long story short - you're gonna have to modify it, add metal, whatever it takes. The repo stuff isn't perfect.
It's an o-ring seal, and the shaft does move a little. You can drop the valve body and disassemble the linkage to change the o ring. A little involved to do it that way, sealer works if you really clean the area like oldbee said.