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@69bfan Richard often has the best advice on weatherstrip. Hopefully he'll see this, he's been busy elsewhere lately.

Post them up here. We're all about helping.

I read somewhere - maybe an Imperial site - to first verify the power pack is putting out 200-250 vAC with nothing plugged in on the output side. This will require a jumper or two, as the dash frame is the ground. Then, plug in one white (output) wire at a time with a jumper wire. If it...

East to test really. Set your voltmeter to C. White wire should have 200 VAC or better with nothing connected.

Youre welcome! Glad it worked out. Last I checked, only Classic Auto Air was doing the cad plating, if your valve needs that.

https://www.heatervalves.net/ https://www.heatercontrolvalve.com/ https://www.classicautoair.com/ https://www.oldairproducts.com/

This. If you have a spare antenna, that could work. I have found that for some a jumper between the antenna shield and the radio helps reception, their ground points want to be common.

Yes, as noted above. It will bolt right in, the two U joint sizes are 2 1/8 and 2 5/8" if I remember correctly. Crossover joints are readily available.

No tools needed to remove the hands, just a bit of care.

No. Your knob is loose. Tighten the screw. If it is running fast you turn it back; if slow, turn forward. The correcting mechanism either increases or decreases tension on the jewel. The hands typically go back on in any position.

Yes, patience. LOL. You reset the time either fast or slow by going around 12 hrs to the correct time. There is a tension pin on the jewel that changes tension slightly every 2 min/at every wind. Covering the clock in lube is a bad plan, as others said, the dirt will build up. The best...

Where in Maryland? I'm just north of Fork.

Keep looking a bit longer? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/248542282886696 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/641154183376005

^ What 493 mike said above. Pull those dents carefully and straighten some of that original metal. Read first: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtf-bfb?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjw2uf2BRBpEiwA31VZjwXDFfkSHCIrIo1T9J9Zz0Q7-czQbLGxTkYpEbr7BAKS_YBzWpKBjhoCkxYQAvD_BwE

Most white wires are the 200-250 volt illumination for the dash. In 66 it included the radio and console. All electroluminescent.

A good friend has a 66 - I'm trying to remember what's oner there. The 12 to 200 volt power pack for the electroluminescent dash and the tach amplifier maybe?

Yes. Puts the alt at full output. The test is slightly different between single field and dual field alternators. I figured you had a single field alt.

Ah, Pops treed' me.

Should be two bolts holding the voltage regulator to the firewall. Yes, would provide ground, but on repaints the pant can cause a ground problem. If you remove the field wire from the alternator and attach a jumper wire to the field terminal - touch the wire to a good ground momentarily...

Regulator has a good ground? If you run the idle up a bit to 1100 rpm what happens to the voltage?