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I use a hair dryer.

Viewing the video in post #27, the Dana 60 weight is given at about 250 pounds.

I have a Satellite Sebring Plus with the stock 8 1/4" rear end and 2.71 ratio (I have upgraded to sure-grip). I'm not worried when I upgrade the 318 to 340, but thought I would ask anyway about anyone having their own 8 1/4" fail at some time (either from normal wear/tear or [heaven forbid]...

Nobody wants to upgrade that I know, it was just a general question out of curiosity.

Because that's what the Mexican owner/mechanic (a local "Mr. Mopar" who owns a 'Cuda, Road Runner, Charger, Satellite Sebring Plus, and Belvedere) told me (vehicle is located in Mexico).

A couple of questions. I know 3/4 and 1 ton pickups/vans usually have "full-floating" differentials (a difference in axle bearings of some kind compared to the average passenger vehicle differential). Photo is a local '69 Charger with a transplanted Dana 60 from a truck. So I would like to ask...

What is the "dimension b" that is listed on spec sheet?

I used hair dryer with the soapy water and found an oil pan gasket leak:

Driving by our local differential shop I stopped in my tracks when I recognized this Dana 60 ready to be swapped from a Ford Super Duty truck into another (unknown) vehicle.

Update: Raised the four wheels off the ground and installed jack stands for easier access. I did not have a "helper" to hold the gear shift in "low" per the cable adjustment instructions, so I decided to use my previous continuity tester procedure. After marking with white paint the position of...

I had not mentioned that the 2 1/2" TTI exhaust had burned through the original "park" shift cable in one spot. I replaced it with a used cable I had for a spare. I lubricated the used cable with a graphite spray before installation. So while searching out this recent problem (mentioned in post...

Performed some more continuity testing this AM and made some progress. I found "N" is found when the gear shift is moved slightly rearward while in reverse. In that spot the tester "beeped" and when I turned the ignition key, the starter motor engaged. So without a doubt the shift cable needs...

I posted this on FABO also, but since the 904 is common to BBodies, I am posting here also: The '65 Formula S had a transmission "rebuild" here in Mexico during the recent body restoration. After re-installing the engine/transmission, the vehicle sat for a few months. I could roll it in and out...

I thought I heard somewhere to test the motor mount putting the selector in reverse? Maybe not.

My version:

Back in the '70's in my four-speed bracket racer, I used "Zoom" because it lacked the grease fitting, advertised as stronger that way. I don't know how current joints would compare, but something to think about.

I cleaned my 904 super well and then used RustOleum Clean Metal Primer with a brush no less. Just wanted a light color (white in this case) to keep tabs on any leaks. We will have to wait and see about longevity. I cleaned it with either Naval Jelly or Ospho which for me gives it kind of an acid...

I know u-joints on the brink of collapse will contribute to a clunk sound when shifting an automatic into gear (with the brake applied), but what if the u-joints are sound and one hears a clunk anyway? I can't picture in my mind what goes on inside the differential to cause such a phenomenon...

At full throttle, my parent's new '71 383 Road Runner automatic would shift at exactly 4,500 RPM from first to second and from second to third (per factory 7,000 RPM tach).

I ran solid motor mounts on a four-speed bracket car to eliminate any movement with respect to z-bar and stuff. I had the motor balanced and never noticed any vibration transmitted to the body over and above rubber mounts. The transmission mount was the stock factory type (rubberized). When...