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I have something like this NOS CBody kit I will someday adapt to my '72 Satellite (the curved fender on the Satellite is the problem). https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/nos-power-antenna.119178/

I just noticed a number in the lower left corner of the label: "990500088" which I am sure is not traceable back to anything.

Should I believe this chrome coil is really "high performance"? I get the feeling it may just be high performance chrome. On the bottom is inscribed "Japan". You never know what you're getting when you purchase a "complete" 340--oil pan to air cleaner these days. It's no larger than a stock coil...

When I purchased the vehicle, one cylinder had a small hole burned right through the top of the piston. Never saw anything like it before. Lost the piston somewhere along the way and no foto to share. No idea what camshaft was installed on the motor when I purchased it and found the damage.

I have a stock build (low compression/stock cam) so I am asking about similar builds.

My 273 bracket racer was set up for 35 degrees BTDC total timing (I think that was recommended back in the 1970's for a Mopar small block. Now with a basically stock 318, I would like to ask what total timing some of you out there in the real world are running in stock built 318's? Thank you...

OK, the supplied/installed gaskets on the Champion plugs are perfectly round on the inside diameter which means impossible to thread them on or off. The just spin and trying to start to pry them off with a tool is not a viable option. The replacement gaskets do have the four mini-tabs that...

Right, I'm usually the odd man out.

With only 2000 mile on the plugs, they are as good as new. There are also times when plug "reading" is used for inspection, tuning, and carb jet changes, etc.

I thought the gaskets used to have 3 or 4 ridges that would serve to contact the threads? That's what I remember anyway. The gaskets on these plugs are just round all the way around so they don't grab the threads, just spin. The good thing is that I have never seen spark plugs easier to change...

I used to run one set of spark plugs cruising Main St. and another set at the drag strip. During the switch, I would install new spark plug gaskets which made it easier to guess the proper torque while tightening while feeling the gasket compress a little bit. Did not hurt sealing either. This...

I have a 48 month maintenance-free auto battery that reads 13.0 volts in the evening and then 10.6 volts in the morning. So I ran the engine for 15 minutes while reading a 14.3 volt charge and then shut off the motor. The battery was back to reading 13.0 volts. I disconnected the negative cable...

Let me throw out this question. My '65 A Body still has the points-style voltage regulator while my '72 B Body has the solid state electronic style. Who knows what year Chrysler made the switch on the new models?

Like I said in my first post, since above idle I receive of good charge of 13.5 volts to 14 volts I am not worried about anything. Just wondered how other vehicles of my vintage were acting. Thank you.

I have "Crackedback" headlight relay upgrade kit already installed, by the way. I did not notice any change in the lights or electrical from how it performed before the installation. Not saying it doesn't work, the brightness and behavior of my particular lights seem to be the same yo me.

I had this same thing happen with an old conventional battery, the Optima is a new addition. I have converted the ammeter to voltmeter. I read above that 66 Sat in post #4 has experienced the same phenomenon. That is what I was wondering about, not believing I was alone in observing this...

This is a '72 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus 318/auto. I have used 3 voltage regulators, the one that came on the car when I purchased it and two aftermarket units. The same thing with any regulator: no charge at idle speed but charges like a champ at any speed above idle. This change is...

I used to run like a welding cable or 0 gauge from the trunk, something like that.

I had a '63 Pontiac Grand Prix (389) that would overheat in traffic and burn up starters right and left. Coincidently, when I replaced the automatic transmission the overheating/starter problems went away. Need to think outside the box sometimes.

I was informed years ago to turn on the headlights before removing jumper cables to prevent damage to the alternator. Might not be a bad idea. Don't know the science behind it though. I don't remember if this advice pertains to the vehicle doing the jumping or the vehicle being jumped.