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Not everyone's cup of tea-I went with a textured silver after having filled in the butchered radio spot with a metal plate behind and a two-part epoxy over the top of that. Highlighted the gauges with a yellow that almost matches the Bahama Yellow exterior.

Mine is Alder wood (not factory) LOL.

How does one re-finish the metal portion of a true Mopar Tuff Wheel? Thank you.

I only used it on the heater control on a '72 rallye dash and I really don't like it.

I thought I read that current newspaper stock is no longer recommended because there has been a change in the paper and/or ink. I also read somewhere that ammonia is a no-no to use on vehicle windows. These remarks are based on personal memory, so feel to correct me if I am wrong.

The last time I installed a new (repro?) speedo cable I just tried to push it on (without having pressed down on the locking tab to open the little tooth catch). In doing so, the little catch/lever snapped right off!

When I saw my package tray was disintegrating, I decided to upgrade to a better grade material--stainless steel (a local restaurant sink fabricator made it for me). I have backlight louvers that shade that area, so I kept it in its "raw' state.

I shipped to my brother's place in California and brought it back with me (to Mexico) in the trunk of my '72 Satellite during one of my extended road trips.

I purchased some panel material over the internet/mail order. The stuff is black and supposedly treated to be water resistant and made for door panel restorations. I guess it is some kind of masonite (don't quote me on that). It arrived in large sheets which I stored for over a year and during...

Since my parents new/special order 1971 Road Runner was factory-equipped with all the basic gauges, I added a small tewart Warner vacuum gauge and oil temperature gauge (both mechanical I believe). I placed them in the left side of the dash applique (see sample foto) which seemed like the...

That rust has some deep pits, even a little sanding should bring out some holes.

Rear Seat "Tool": https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/crude-but-effective-removing-rear-seat-cushion.162908/#post-911114178

I only used the foil/rubbery stuff on the ceiling and not the thick foam on top of that, afraid it might unglue and fall down on my headliner. Used both 1/4" an 1/2" foam on the floorboards (on top of the foil), depending on the curvature I needed to follow. Durning a heat wave on the freeway...

I can still put my seats back in anytime, rear shelf and trunk divider are now food grade stainless steel (vehicle can later be re-cycled into a kitchen sink).

This is a '72 Satellite Sebring Plus in case that makes a difference.

With new foam in the door panels, the only "tool" I had handy was this paint can opener and brute strength. I got it started, now it won't move. I hope it's not cross threaded already. I guess I should make some kind of special tool before I destroy something. PS I had to pull hard on the...

That's it! Now, any opinions on color?

There is foam underneath. which probably made things worse.

He used to do good work, now furniture is piled higher and higher in his shop every week, he is falling way behind, and is quality of work is no longer acceptable--in other words, he has lost it for some reason. At least he could have told me the headliner material was too stretchy to work well...

... or they will come out wrinkled. Now I have to ask, when I do the visors over again, what color should they be? With the original tawny gold they were gold, with the first blue repaint they were blue, and with the current Bahama Yellow and two-toned interior I can't decide.