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I use a propane torch. Heat and it peels up like a ribbon. Use a flat screw driver and a wire brush when needed.

I have installed dozens of AMD quarter panels. The AMD 69 quarters fit very well. Always fit the quarter extensions, while fitting the quarter, BEFORE welding anything. ALWAYs have the doors and trunk lid on, and aligned before fitting the quarters. If possible, don't even take the doors and...

No. Only R/T Charger had tail stripes available factory installed 68-70, as well as the 1969 500 and Daytona variations. had to have a 440 or Hemi to get a tail stripe

This is how it's done

This is right

This absolutely. DO NOT use an angle grinder, or a sandblaster. As a bodyman, I have seen so many cars destroyed by novices that think faster is better. Slow and steady, with no aggressive tools

I installed a new AMD rear bumper on my 71 Charger. I was happy with the fit and chrome finish. Looked like the same gauge metal as the original. I do restorations, and have used many AMD bumpers. I have been happy with all of them

What you are seeing is a zinc chromate primer that was applied with a brush, before the fenders and hood were bolted on. When Chrysler built the cars, the fenders, doors, hood and trunklid were all installed while the car was a bare metal assembly, then the car was painted. Here's how they did...

I put AMD door and quarter glass in a 68 Plymouth Satellite and it fit just like original. No issues

The rubber weatherstrips. I have yet to find a reproduction that actually works right. They aren't the exact profile as the originals. The quarter windows need to roll up into the groove, while the front windows need to close against it. The repros are different enough, that they don't work well...

The reproduction roof rail weatherstrips are not the same profile as original. Get yourself some nice originals.

AMD makes their panels. Sherman is a retailer. They do not make parts. The "Sherman" panel and the OER panel are the same part, which is the generic quarter skins that have been around for 30 years. These panels are thin, floppy and oversized because they were designed to go over top of the...

F6 is a Dodge color. Code 97 is the Plymouth Rallye green, which is GM formula that Plymouth used. GM had it first. The Plymouth/Chevrolet color is a bit darker, and almost candy looking. It is metallic, although not as metallic as Dodges F6. I owned a 69 1/2 A12 Road Runner, code 97 green for...

Yes, but less than ideal

The crossmember cannot be replaced from under the car. The rockers are angled, so the crossmember is "wedged" in place from above.

1968 Plymouth B bodies were painted with the extension off, and the extension was painted separately, then bolted on. From the factory, the 68's used the black plastic gasket, which does virtually nothing to seal out water. In 1969, the extensions were bolted to the car, sealed with seam...

68,69,70 Dodge and Plymouth B body doors all interchange physically, but: The 68 doors have the door lock push button at the far rear. The 68 hardtop doors use a bolt in door glass up stop that bolts in near the center of the door. The 69,70 doors have the lock button moved forward, plus, The...

Always disassemble your spray gun and clean every piece, and then reassemble, put some acetone or lacquer thinner in the cup and spray some through to make sure it is perfectly clean inside

Yes, one coat is fine as long as you get even coverage. Good choice on the Omni epoxy. It is a very good product. You can reduce it a bit to spray easier too. PPG recommends acetone.

I've been a licensed auto body and paint tech for 32 years, restoring Mopars for almost 40 years. I'll share some tips on bare metal and proper ways to deal with it. As for your sandblasted fenders, first off, keep your bare hands off of them. The sandblasted metal is somewhat porous now, and...