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The distributor used would be a magnetic pick up for spark signal. Then the amplifier unit would be the 6AL, GM HEI MODULE, or Chrysler stock ignition box. This last one requires a ballast resistor

I have the MSD 6 AL IGNITION box on my 440. When I park it, I shut off the fuel pump to drain the fuel from the carb. It won't die until the mixture leans out past 16 to 1. That's the advantage of HEI, It will fire a lean mixture. I would be installing the HEI CONVERSION, if I didn't already...

OK got it working now. You CAN trigger spark directly from the magnetic pick up on the dist, OR from the boost retard box. The retard box uses the yellow wire to trigger spark. But if the yellow wire is still hooked up, then the 2 wire clip hook up on the box won't work. So now I can completely...

That looks right. I think prob is that they clipped the white wire on the box side. Now I need to re connect that wire for it to work.

Here is a picture of my box with the 2 wires and clip. I thought it would work by hooking the distributor to these, but it doesn't. Older model 6420

I am eliminating the boost retard box on my 6 AL system. So not sure where to connect the magnetic Pick Up wires from the distributor. There is a hook up coming out of the main box with 2 wires on it. But when I plug the dist into those it won't spark. I want to wire the system as intended new...

Yes I considered that. It has the MSD IGNITION too. So I'm not sure I want to get rid of that. I'm pretty sure the ignition switch has worn or dirty contacts. I have a fix I'm going to try, putting in a relay for the regulator voltage. This will insure a steady 12 volts to that. Other guys on...

This has all been re wired with aftermarket gauges. He must have ran a wire to power the gauge lights coming off the DK BLUE wire that feeds the voltage regulator and the blue field wire going to alternator. This blue wire isnt running ignition. He has that on a different circuit.

Just found out that when I jumper a wire from batt to the blue field wire, it works fine. Steady 14.5 volts, no spikes or lights flickering. So when I shut the key off, the motor stopped, but the gauge lights stayed on! So he has the blue field wire also feeding the gauges! No wonder the...

Yes, I burnt up an MSD box once. Had the alt hooked up wrong, and it was charging 30 amps for awhile. Thought the battery was just low on charge. Then I pulled over to check it, opened the hood and the red box was smoking. It didn't work anymore after that. .

Oh. I see now. Someone on A Bodies used the same type of relay to get a steady and full battery current to the regulator, then ran the ignition directly off the ignition switch. So this is just the opposite. But getting the same results. Thanks for the info.

Yes that makes sense. So the relay is actuated when the ignition switch is turned on? And then that relay completes a direct circuit of battery to field/regulator circuit? Is that how it works? Then I won't run ignition or any other circuit off that wire. Sounds fairly easy. Thanks!

Anyway, I ran a clip lead directly from the battery to the dark blue wire which goes to the regulator and 1 side of the alternator field. Apparently the regulator senses battery voltage from this blue wire, and then grounds the other field wire to complete the circuit. That energizes the field...

OK, sorry bout that. It is a 1970 Dodge Dart. Newer style solid state voltage regulator. 440 Auto. Pretty much all stock, except for the B Body drive train. AKA 440-727-8 3/4 rearend. And the ignition has been modified to use an MSD 6-AL, with timing retard box added. It has a Paxton blower...

So the blue wire is the battery sense wire?

So there should also be a wire coming off the ignition switch that sends battery voltage to the regulator and field wire, Right? Is that normally a dark blue wire ? Here is a pic of the blue wire, coming off the regulator, and going to a junction. It is showing slightly lower voltage,with key...

I guess I'll run a dedicated wire from the battery ground to the reg body. That would eliminate that possible problem. Also, I can disconnect the regulator plug, and measure voltage going into the regulator. It should be the same as what the field wire of the alt has.

My voltmeter shows 16, sometimes * 16.5 volts going to the battery with the engine running. So I checked the field wire voltage at the alternator with the key on, motor not running. The field wire is getting 11.25 volts, with key on and the motor not running. Then I check battery voltage and it...

Switch on, starts in all gears. Switch off, only in park and neutral. Like it is supposed to do. I disconnected the switch. You know, Sometimes I crank the motor from the engine bay. If it ever started in gear, that could be disastrous! It could back out of the garage by itself, or run into a...

Update: Removed the black ground wire today, and discovered that it was hooked up to a switch that was hidden under the dash. So with the flip of the switch, it could be started in any gear. Not sure why this was needed, but it was in there.