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Agree. @Vincent Holt Put a piston stop (see picture below) in the #1 spark plug hole. Turn the engine by hand one direction. When it stops, mark the balancer at the zero indicator on the timing chain cover. Now turn the engine by hand the opposite way until it stops again. Again mark the...

One suggestion with those bearings: Drill and tap the bearing. Then if you have to take it out, two screws will easily pull it out for you!

I fully agree with @dadsbee. A .017" press is WAY too much, you'll ruin the bushing trying to get it in. A .0015" - .002" press is spot on, IMHO.

Seems like good service. Quick, and the guy actually thought about your use and did what is best for you. That's a business I would go back to!

That's good - you really want both heads cut the same so the compression stays the same one side to another. At my father-in-law's shop, we evaluate the heads and cut the worst one first. The second always gets the same amount of a cut even if it doesn't need it so the engine runs consistently.

I think Doug's and TTI both make headers that don't "dangle" below the steering on the driver's side. Trust me, I lived with them on my 73 for years, and the clearance sucks. IMHO, well worth the extra cash to buy good headers.

The special steel wool is typically used where a crank counterweight has been drilled out to lighten it for one build, and then later for another build it needs to have weight put back into it. Mallory metal is very expensive and not needed for that type of repair. Even though this steel wool is...

Yeah, and I would have thought the weight would be mostly removed from the rod journal side opposite the counter weight. The counter weights on each side of the crank are where most balancing is done. The second picture the OP posted shows that the counter weight has been drilled for balancing...

My guess would be for balancing. Mostly, you take weight off the counterweights. But adding weight to the counterweights can be difficult. So I suspect that rather than adding weight to the counterweights someone instead removed it from the rod journal side. A few grams won't hurt anything, but...

Yup. What he said. I sometimes wiggle the pushrod up and down. You hear and feel the slight tapping as it moves. at the point where it stops doing that, you are pretty much at "zero lash". Regardless of technique, with some practice, you can feel the point of zero lash.

I built a 416 stroker engine out of a 340 for my 73 Road Runner. I used a flat tappet cam because roller cams were temporarily not available when I built it during the pandemic. Broke it in "properly", and then drove it over 11,000 miles across country. After that I added more than 6,000 miles...

I'm not sure anyone is contradicting your diagram. But here is a diagram that expands on the angles. I don't have a clearer picture of it - this was provided by @1 Wild R/T some time ago. I have stated, and will continue to state, that when I followed this (first diagram in picture below), that...

So first, thanks for carrying on a conversation like adults without resorting to name calling. :thumbsup: It's a shame so many threads break down to that! 1) I acknowledge my memory of what I read and what I wrote in my final results do not match. My final results (last link in post #10) say...

Here is the thread where my issue was discussed. At my wits end: Need help with driveline vibration Look especially at this post: At my wits end: Need help with driveline vibration The picture is a bit hard to see, but zoom in to the top of the picture. When I did what the top picture...

Remember that our Mopars have leaf springs and pinion snubbers. There is a good reason for the pinion snubbers because the pinion rotates up under load. A Chevy 4 link holds the pinion at a constant angle. For those applications you want the engine and transmission down a few degrees (I've read...

I went through hell with my 73 Road Runner for a number of years. It had a driveline vibration. A lot of information about pinion angle deals with cars that do not have leaf springs. Bottom line is that for leaf springs, a good target is 4* down for engine and transmission (they are the same)...

The easiest way to try is by changing your flex plate. To change your flex plate, you do not need to remove the transmission or the torque converter. Unbolt your old flex plate, slide it out and slide in a weighted one. For example: The only caveat is I have done this with a flex plate that...

OK, so you spend $60 on an oil change. How much would you spend on an engine rebuild?!? (I know you agree with me, just making the point) :thumbsup: I totally agree with using a good oil, with controlled levels of ZDDP (and other additives) made for our old cars.

And, not to be captain obvious here: But the changes that may be needed for a internally vs externally balanced engine does not affect the transmission itself, but rather the torque converter (or flexplate).

I approve of that oil! (Not that anyone cares...) :thumbsup: