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Don’t waste money on a pinion snubber, especially if it’s lowered. It’ll just push the pinion down and the car will porpoise. Been there done that. Get a set of caltrac bars or if it’s street only, even a cheap set of slapper bars will keep the axle housing from rotating up.

My car still utilizes the stock cam bolts on the UCAs as well as spherical rod ends. For drag racing, the more caster the better, but I’ve had so much caster dialed in the car would hardly take an interstate off ramp without me putting my body weight onto holding the steering wheel from wanting...

Reviving an old thread here, and I have a leak at the sender on this block. Does anyone know what the sensor thread is or what I can use as a plug since I don’t need it in my application. Thanks!

Yes, it’s the key light. Everything will function fine without it.

Good Lord... here we go again... lol. The bearing debate continues...

Stock mounts with a torque strap on it to limit movement will work fine.

Handling issues are when you’ve got this kinda stuff and more going on. Another factor is having the front end alignment done after the lift.

Ah yes... the Chevrolet design.

No idea... I can’t believe people still use them! I got these with a bunch of parts and should just pitch them.

I got a super deal for someone from this thread, lol!

Get some superstock springs, extended shackles and some high jackers. Don’t forget the plaid bell bottoms and frayed denim jacket!

If so, that makes perfect sense. I suppose if someone mixed all kinds of brake fluid they could have created something to gum up a line but in my experience, it’s usually a hose deteriorating that causes that condition. Using 50 year old steel lines isn’t a problem if they’re in good shape...

I wouldn’t either. In fact, I didn’t use any at all on the rear. Wilwoods are a fixed caliper, as mentioned, and replacing the pads doesn’t even require caliper removal.

If the original lines need replacing, go for it. I guess if I replaced anything it would be the original rubber lines with AN braided lines. Might help stiffen up that pedal some.

Who suggested this and why? Are the factory lines in good condition or do they need replacing? I run 4 wheel Wilwood discs with the original factory lines.

You’re both correct. For most applications, stock components are fine. For drag applications, an adjustable upper control arm will really help with getting more caster. Unfortunately, mine have to be removed from the car to be adjusted.

You were saying.......?

Probably steered itself down the track. I knew those had a lot but I didn’t know it was that much. My experience is all door car related.

Depends on the purpose. Typical street car might have 2 or 3 degrees, street strip car 3-6 and a strut front race car might be as much as 15.

That’s the one I couldn’t remember. Cool stuff.