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It's made wrong. I used their top line, but my bottom one also stuck out to far. Luckily I had an original, so everything is in place.

I don't consider the style fuel pump @PurpleBeeper posted as rebuildable. I know there are people with the ability to rebuild them, but in no way is it cost effective.

A Carter 4327S is the correct carburetor for your car.

Yep, Kern rubber fuel lines turn to mush, fuel pump diaphragms fail, etc. I replaced 4 fuel tanks before I learned my lesson. That was over 20 years ago. The only ethanol fuel I have got since was sold by a station that was cheating the public. They were selling 87 ethanol fuel for 93 non...

No matter what your tune, the % of ethanol in the fuel will result in about the same % loss of fuel economy. Add to that, if you let ethanol fuel sit in metal fuel tanks for long periods of time the corn turns to water and rusts the tanks, clogs the fuel filters and carburetors.

The reproduction seal for the GTX cap is good.

66 and 67 filler necks are the same, but without the proper seal they will leak. The GTX cap takes a special seal so as not to leak.

My 68 R/T doesn't have a return line, nor a vapor separator. It just has a normal filter on the output of the fuel pump. The majority of my cars are 66-68 and none were equipped with return lines. I can't speak about a 69 as I don't own one. 1970 has a return line and a vapor separator. The pump...

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/fuel-delivery/fuel-pumps---tanks/fuel-pump/e29df13f84cc/v/a/16806/automotive-car-1970-plymouth-superbird?q=fuel+pump O'Reilly's Auto parts. It will be the same for your 68 Coronet R/T.

I thought all 383-400 intakes interchanged, except the early 383 RB engines.

If I'm not mistaken, only one bolt holds the choke in the choke stove. The other end of the choke just has a tab that sticks in the hole. So interference won't be a problem.

Nothing like original parts. It's the quality of today's parts.

The most obvious culprit is a bad fuel pump. I had the same issue recently on my Superbird. Initially I thought it was a vapor lock issue, then the vapor separator/filter. Checked the fuel pump push rod, which is the original to the engine and it was perfect. The only reason I even though to do...

I got a pump that's correct, no adapter needed. Life Time Warranty at O'Reilly's. Precision Fuel Pump - M16187

8 psi does seem a little high.

Yes, it may work, but may still need some kind of adapter for the flared line connection. If the pump I'm looking at doesn't work, I will get some of those adapters as in @pnora post.

Thanks @pnora for all the information and the availability of that fitting.

I agree Ed. Looking at those Carter pumps with the 3/8 inlet and that little bitty outlet made me think the same thing.

The pumps I have previously purchased had the 1/2 20 tpi outlet. I think I have located some that are correct made by Airtex.