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The backside of that panel will be full of rust pits all along that panel. To do it right that entire lower 6" of the quarter needs to be cut off and then blast the trunk extension (I am sure it has pits to) and then a patch panel welded on. What you see is only about 10% of what is actually...

CudaMark on the A-Body site lives in San Diego and rekeys Mopar locks has hobby/retirement gig. He did 2 sets for the A100's for like $30. He has the official Mopar tools for doing it.

SPI hands down.

SPI epoxy sands like 2k. Many of us SPI users will use the epoxy as our 2k with poly. The Valiant is just poly and epoxy. Make a strong chip resistant base

Not sure what the question is? If you sand through the epoxy when working the filler you just spritz on a bit more Epoxy to cover it up and more filler. It won’t be a linear process trust me!

66 Valiant. Motobase yellow base and SPI Universal Clear following Barrys “Perfect Paint Job” directions

Epoxy first. It is what seals the metal. Filler on metal can get moisture behind it (think rust pinholes). Of course here in Az you would likely never notice! Make sure you follow any recommendations by the epoxy manufacturer on windows or sanding grit for adhesion for the filler over epoxy...

Something is not right there. Did you contact Barry?

Just call the tech line. It is Barry’s cell phone. You can get Motobase from Chad Sperry http://www.autorodtechnologies.com/chads-paint-and-audio

he is a small business and the best epoxy primer and clears on the market keep him busy enough. One shade, Barry Orange. I only will use his primers and clears.

Southern Polyurathane orange but Barry only makes 3 reds, orange, black and white. The Duster, Dart and Valiant are Motobase and Southern Polyurathane Universal Clear.

Automotive Arts Motobase

Hey Ron. Hard to say without seeing the Bermuda Triangle area at the cowl/fender/door. Once you get that area right then just rotate the back up and down. Typically have to go too high so the weight pulls it down the the right level.

Man are you sure that area has any metal? That looks like it was just filler. That should be solid welded in metal in that area.

You can’t go wrong with a California Car Cover for sure.

Sorry, I just don't see how that is possible. Have you ever tried to media blast a seriously rusted piece of metal? I would agree it could be possible for flash rush or surface rust maybe but not rust that is eating away at the metal.

No such thing as a rust converter, the chemistry does not work..... blasting all the rust out and epoxy primer is the only permeant way to stop rust.

Helpful hint. After the 3rd one I learned a trick. I now use the wife’s clothes steamer to heat and soften the material to stretch it and lay it down smooth.

Screw in the middle and the alignment pin. Should have been 2 holes in the top if it had one before.

DAP Weldwood Landau Top Cement...