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Yes, you have to sharpie mark both when you do the adjustments. a bit of a hassle but otherwise a great set up.

Return springs are connected at the throttle cable pin as they should be. Kick down wire is clamped down hard and was marked with a black sharpie. Interesting that you had to engage into the pressure a bit further than me. When my carb is at idle the kickdown just hits the start of the pressure.

I guess he means the return spring? Like on mine here:

What do you mean? The throttle bracket is custom made and pulls the full length of the carbs throttle travel. The kickdown linkage is adjusted correctly for when the gears should fall in and there is no slippage.

Sure is. ....but how would a quicker flow to the secondary's help my kickdown? Carb is already perfectly tuned in for the transition to the secondary's.

Thanks for the info and I do have a spring pulling the arm forward. :thumbsup:

Good point, the lever was not changed but the TQ has longer travel than the SD. I do have some different lengths levers to play around with. So, am I correct now to think that the lever should be longer to follow the longer range TQ?

It is kicking down but with a loooong delay when you really force it. Yeah, it is tempting to put on the old carb and take notes.

Mounting point differs 1cm. I checked again and when carb is fully open then the KD is bottomed out. (Also checked with pedal floored.)

Damnit, I have been adjusting like crazy at WOT. ...starts to feel like its the starting point that is wrong. What could be the next step, shorter lever down on the box?

Thinking out of the box here... Could I have damaged/bent something in the valve body when testing? For ex having the cable too short so the KD is bottoming out before fully open carb?

I do have it right at where the pressure starts in the KD lever. Changing gears is a nice "tug" at the correct speeds. (Dont remember the speeds now but I found them online when adjusting. )

I thought the cable adjuster could fix that but maybe there is something else with the ratio that changes moving the attach-point rearwards?

It is set at idle (barely touching where you start to feel resistance in the throttle lever.) And then the best change gear adjustment was when the KD lever is about 1mm from bottoming out when the carb is fully open.

The carb. The only difference is the distance in where the KD wire is mounted.

It is a -69 box. The carb is fully open. During my engine tests with other carbs I have had both low speed and high speed kickdowns, so both are there somewhere.

Ok, I very carefully installed my wire set-up on my 727, making sure the hole on the carb lever was exactly where it should be (I took the special mopar bouchillion throttle plate to double check with.) I tested several arms (Different lengths) down on the throttle lever on the 727. I got a...

I once got oil in my tub under the intake...guess what, it was the bolts. Some sealer on and dry like a desert.

Check my post: My Carburetor journey. And yes, you want a dual-plane intake first, then for even faster air-speed you want smaller primaries.

No issue but want to upgrade plus get all of them stainless when I go over seats,guides etc etc in the shop.