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Interesting stuff regarding the reluctor positioning errors. One more thing to keep an eye out for. Thx for posting up.

It should be ready to bolt in. Last one i bought was. Never heard of anyone selling a starter with no solonoid, cept Fords.

Thats an expensive starter. It would certainly be worth the trouble to repair, and find out what kind of support you can get from RobbMC.

Dont the leads on both sides come right into the cabin near the switches?? Try unplugging one side or the other and see what happens. A wiring diagram should show you how they work and where they go. Check out MyMopar.com for a specific diagram.

Just found this; looks like an awesome resource. https://www.mpsracing.com/instructions/msd/wiringmanual.pdf Look at page 37 top half. Anyway, MDS wiring diagrams are pretty easy to find.... I think Holley has them up for posterity too. Original diagram for reference;

If it has the Mopar logo on it, its always good enough for the man cave lol. :lowdown:

I cant see how pulling that black wire could have any effect.... as long as those five larger colored wires are in their respective positions in the plug, same as before. What year vehicle?? Charger?

Not sure, but it would help a lot if your pictures were more concise..... "apples to apples" may help.

From the looks of the original wiring diagram, everything is hot (bulb and all) as long as the key is "ON", and the one wire to the brake sensing block allows the wire to ground when there's an issue... This would allow the light bulb to illuminate. To put it another way; imagine a two wire...

Maybe worth a direct message to Crackedback and ask him.... many have raved about his system . Crackedback wiring harness installed with pictures and video.

IK.... I thought about that, but not sure how it would make any difference?? Oiling??

Pretty sure the shaft is the wrong length.... it's wrong for a B engine too, if i remember right.

If you pull the coil and it's sloshing, like not full of oil, then I'd say it's your best bet.... Otherwise, it really could be either, as others have alluded to.

Just in case Sinitro's advice doesnt help.... I saw on on FleaBay, newer than yours, no wiring legend, clealry five wires coming out the back..... Can you do any good with this: https://www.kevinchant.com/uploads/7/1/0/8/7108231/ft-818.pdf GL, Lefty71

Well, as according to the wiring legend, theres a "grey" wire that appears to be missing???

Could it involve the windshield washer pump?? Should be brown not black... thought black would be grounds but I dunno about the connector..

Seems like Chrysler Corp was'nt real big on engine compartment pix in their brochures, maybe ever.... Easier to find the engines pictured alone than in the cars, from a promotional standpoint.

The plumber joke thing means "clearly this isn't your field of work" and I'm sure was only Iightheaterdly directed at those who posted sketchy instructions. No one in their right mind would actually poke fun at plumbers....life would be hell without them lol.

Flex-a-lite used to have a way to do both, in one.... I had a van rigged that way once. I wanted the control, as you say, but I wanted the automatic sense set a little higher for a fail-safe.

A small switch can get the power to a large relay, and turn on large loads that way. In my mind relays provide for cost savings in WIRE AND SWITCHES, especially in remote loads. Their use has very little to do with overall power used. Take it from a plumber lol.