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Vac cans don't work, you just have more of low vac. You need to have higher vac, vac pumps work great, just noisy

Remove drum and hub to replace either bearing

Diameter doesn't matter in hydraulics

Rock auto lists the correct master for your application. So store gave you wrong one, now they don't exist? Take it back and get right one. The only one that won't work for your car is the disc brake master only because it has 1 1/8" bore which is a bit large for drum use.

The typical aftermarket booster has a screw in pin with a nut behind it, is this what you have? If so unscrew the pin completely and remove the nut, you can now screw the pin without nut in farther, all the way until it stops. I had to do that years ago on some boosters

If they don't rub or hang up , yes you can run them

I think you'll find they carry 2 lengths, long for front kits and short for rear kits

Braided need to be a little longer then the correct sized rubber since they don't stretch like rubber will. Not that long. The only issue with hoses that long is if they rub the tire. With the banjo end tight you can loosen the frame end and change the orientation (direction) so it doesn't rub...

One size fits all... or so they think.

$50 for a gasket. You can buy the brand new complete master

I don't see where you can buy a new cover or gasket. From the looks of your master I would buy a new one so everything is new. Interesting enough, Rock Auto lists a Centric master for drum brakes that does not have that lower plug. Hopefully the one that get's sent out is the same as the picture.

Just out of curiosity I checked that bolt length. I have not sold Mopar kits, I sell many Ford and Chevy ones. I do use that caliper in quite a few of my kits. I bought a set of those brackets just in case my 63 drum brakes take a dump. Anyway, I grabbed a bolt/sleeve and it's length is perfect...

Bore size is not the problem. I would say still air in the system.

Master cylinder bore size may be too small. What bore size is your master? The smaller the bore the longer the pedal travel and is softer. Bigger bore reduces travel and firms the pedal feel. You always use a larger bore with power then you do with manual

You need to install a slightly smaller bore diameter on the master. The smaller the bore size, the softer the pedal and the pedal will travel farther. You need to determine what size you have now

If the problem is the internal valve moving over the easiest way to re-center is to open a bleeder on a front and a rear brake at same time and then pump the brakes as if bleeding and that will make for equal pressure on both sides of the valve, and it should recenter. Unequal pressure on the...

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Are you having a problem that you're trying to correct? If so, what is it?

According to my parts book, 71/72 drum brake cars got 1 1/32" bore. And they show them all as the bail clip style Manual disc brake cars used 1" bore while power disc used 1 1/32"

Was it ok with the previous shocks? If so, reinstalling them may be your only remedy. Edit: I just read your remark about changing to front mount, that is a great option if the calipers will clear in that position