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I would be surprised if any of this helps without a cam change.

I ran those gears on a 85 Dodge pickup with a 318. Really woke it up with a 340 Dual- plane with 600 cfm Holley and an up- graded cam. I used a Crane cam , I believe advertised duration was 260/262.

Really? Do you have a part number ?

I may be mistaken, but I seem to recall those holes were originally tapped and a threaded “floor jet” was screwed into them. Over time they burned out and became bigger. I had seen them welded shut.

3500 so far.

I wore one out in about the same number of miles, replaced it with a hardened pushrod from Hughes Engines. So far so good.

Maybe park it in the shop or equipment barn. Or leave it outside on a pallet and move it with the forklift when I need it.

I found that PSC would be my best option.

Are most of you able to source Sunoco race fuels local to you?

As previously posted. I have removed them multiple times in a 67 Coronet and 69 GTX. Just let the axle hang, they come out easily without damaging the sender.

You can get the sender out without lowering the tank.

So with stock manifolds and dual exhaust with h-pipe, with no crossover in the intake manifold, where would the bung be installed?

I am looking to purchase an AFR meter, so I'm looking for some recommendations. I don't intend to permanently install it in the car, just want to check and adjust my set-up, then put a plug in the weld-in bung. Looking forward to some input.

I would be curious as to how you made out with it. I installed one on a 69 GTX. The meter match didn’t have enough adjustment. E is empty, but full is 3/4. Long conversations with their engineer, but no solution. The sender does it’s job.

And then there's the dreaded pushrod dilemma.

Did you measure that pushrod? 3.220 is the correct length. Mine was wore .200, and though I could feel at the line that something was happening, it wouldn't pump any fuel. Installed a hardened pushrod from Hughes Engines yesterday.

I've come to the conclusion that it is probably NOT the pushrods fault, either too much pump spring pressure, or rough cam finish. More to follow.

Amsoil Z-Rod 10w-30.

In the spring of 2021 I installed a new OE style fuel pump on my newly rebuilt 440. 2,000 miles later, it quit running and I found the original fuel pump pushrod was wore almost a 1/4" and was not pumping fuel. I replaced it with another original equipment pushrod I had on hand. Sunday, 2200...

I've had a couple "correct" replacement temp sensors that aren't correct and don't agree with each other.