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I had Jerry Martin restore and anodize the grill surrounds on my 67 R/T. Did a beautiful job, I was satisfied with the price. He sends them out for anodizing after he restores and polishes.

To help prevent wrinkles, keep the top up when storing or not driving. ( like overnight)

I have had good success with a product called “Rust Ender” from “The Shops”. It is a rust converter.

They look like normal cage nuts from a good hardware store.

Expect to pay $800 plus for a pair in need of repair and refinishing. Another $900 plus to repair, polish, and re-anodize.

I have used a rust converter from a company called “The Shops”. Have had good luck with it.

Those nuts are available from NAPA in various sizes.

What year and model? Looks a lot like bronzefire.

Charger Metals In Philadelphia did my headlight surrounds for 67 Coronet. Did a nice job restoring and polishing, he sends the parts out for anodizing. I was happy with the work.

Maybe Holley Retrobrights?

I think I’ve figured it out.

The pin came out of my window glass. I can’t just replace the pin and put it back in the existing channel?

I use self-etching primer on the aluminum.

The keys to sandblasting are: enough compressor, dry air, no contaminates in your media to clog the tip.

When I bought the kit, the suction gun was all that was offered. I later bought a gravity feed gun. It sits in the shop in the box, I use a HVLP gun and compressor. I could never get a decent finish with the turbine gun.

Good luck.

Rolled the passenger window 1/2 way down and saw it was coming out of the wing window track. I found this pin coming out of the hole in the glass. Where would I get the correct pin and seals, and how does it come apart and go back together? Just looking for experienced advice.

In November I took the grill surrounds and hood trim from my 67 Coronet to Jerry Martin - Charger Custom Chrome. These pieces were anodized aluminum, and had some small dents and a lot of pitting. I picked these parts up today, and WOW!! I can't say enough about how good they look and what a...

Most epoxy primers I have used were not sandable. If you sand into them, you run the risk of your topcoat shrinking into it. I had flaws in a paint job show up weeks after it was shot, where I had sanded into the epoxy primer in spots. Now, if I have filler or spot icing to add, I shoot a layer...

I seal everything with epoxy, then sandable primer before filler.