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Just a heads up. I just replaced 2 blown fuses in our 72 cutlass that looked great even after pulling them out. I was already scratching my head what the issue is when someone recommended me testing them with a multimeter continuity test. Turns out those visually beautiful looking fuses were...

You could say the same thing about mercedes. Good Advertising/Marketing.

Do you actually have any problems? My car has its original single point distributor and i have no reason to "upgrade". It works great. My 72 cutlass has been upgraded to HEI by the previous owner and it also works great but i do not feel this was a necessary upgrade.

Mercedes W140 anyone? History Repeats!

Exactly my opinion. :) I'm happy to see people on here think the same way. Here in germany people always seem to push/prefer the "pointless conversion" because of being "maintenance free". Yeah nice but it's not as reliable, simple and if you're converting also not original. I remember seeing...

Relays do click. That's normal. Well could be the switch inside the steering wheel or the wiring.

Because of that i would say if you really want to use the internal amplifier you want speakers with no more than 22w RMS @ 4 ohm each. But its still taking a guess to some extent.

50 watt x 4 means 200 watt total spread across 4 speakers. But it's not clear if that means 200 watt rms or peak and at what resistance / ohm. (Watts drop when ohms increase) That's why i recommended buying this set of speakers and external amplifier...

Took a quick look at them. Probably still a good choice. :)

Nice to hear it works for you but i again have not found a RMS or Ohm rating on the Pioneer website. It just says 4 x 50 Watt. what it should say would be something like 4 x 50 Watt RMS @ 4 Ohm. Your speakers (if i found the right ones) should have 100 Watt RMS @ 4 Ohm each. So your setup would...

After using a VPN i was able to view the jbl usa website. It looks like their offerings are different in the united states. The speakers i found on their site aren't as subtle looking as the ones i posted but OK. If you just want to add 2 speakers this would be my choice...

I looked a bit into it. Unfortunately JBL does not let me browse the us website but they do have some nice subtle looking speakers: When looking at Watt Ratings you need to look at the RMS rating, not the peak/music power rating. What does it help if your engine makes 500hp but only for 1...

I'm not a car hifi expert but out of all speaker brands i prefer JBL. (They sound the best IMO) So i would go with them if they have what you need. Here is my little JBL setup :D

I also want to note that my car has A/C so there is this little vent on the lower left side of the dash: Behind that is a "hose" that takes up quite a bit of space. This vent isn't there on non a/c cars so i suspect there also isn't a space uptaking "air hose" behind it then? Did someone...

According to this post i can also jump these two wires http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,58320.msg650184.html#msg650184 But read my last post, the problem is it looks like i can't reach the switch. So what i currently want to know is if there's a way to reach it without pulling...

That might not be the case. Today i was laying under the dash @ 110F inside the cabin trying to reach this switch but i wasn't able to get a good sight or let alone reach it. Is there a way to replace or at least bypass it without pulling half the dash apart or do i really have to pull the...

I thought he was talking about a special mopar tool. Well in this case i also think it won't beat a jewlers screwdriver. I will get me 2 of these and practise: https://www.ebay.com/itm/233690578310 Just don't know who sells the best quality ones.

Today we managed to replace the fusible link by cutting the pin. (It still did not come out easy, though.) I figured i will buy myself 2 sets of these Engine Bulkhead Connector Insulator Terminal Kit Fits 66-70 B-Body 67-74 A-Body | eBay and keep practising in case i will have to do this again...

Well guys i will get myself a bit of sleep and then later give this a try. I will go ahead and start off by directly connecting prong R and I on the dimmer switch like described here: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,58320.msg650184.html#msg650184 If this should be wrong...

Well this post seems to support my assumption that i have to jump connector I and R on the dimmer switch. http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,58320.msg650184.html#msg650184