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Go with a complete system that comes from CAA or Vintage. The original R-12 system used different hoses with out barriers that the new ones have and used different oil and o-ring, seals. Different capacity and pressures. Otherwise you will likely not be happy with thre performance of a patch...

Not running the hoses in the proper orientation is like reversing your radiator hoses. The core absolutely knows which way the coolant flows. Like pumping hot coolant to the bottom of your radiator instead of the top.

They go exactly as you have them. Big block and Hemi routing are the same.

Stop leak is good for figure eight cars, demolition derby cars and chain race derby cars...

Cooling system failure is the number one cause of engine failures in the US. And that is with all the factory stuff. When you increase horsepower on a car the domino effect starts. Now you have to strengthen (drivetrain) clutches or beef up the a/t, torque converter, cool the trans fluid, drive...

Make sure to use the proper oil and o-rings compatible with the type of refrigerant you are using. R-12 was the original and domestic production outlawed many years ago. Very expensive if you can find virgin Freon®. The newer refrigerant ( also being discontinued) used on most cars in the last...

Most automobiles in the early 1900's were electric.

No. They are different on the a/c valve. Hose from thermostat is normally the in side to the heater core. The out side from the core runs to the water pump.. Thermo stat side nipple (1/2") is smaller than the water pump nipple. (5/8") Flow runs from into the left heater core fitting and out the...

The problem with cooling systems start when they aren't maintained properly and something on/in the engine gets changed. Everything under the hood was designed to work together. Just like a factory engine is. The problem starts when you start to "upgrade" parts . Soon you are chasing your tail...

Fan clutch, proper fan blade. fan should be at least have way into the shroud opening. Use a refractometer to properly measure the coolant %. 20° above means almost no coolant as normal freezing point at sea level is 32°. Use only distilled water. Ethylene Glycol. on cast iron head/block...

And have the cap and the cooling system pressure checked. New doesn't always mean it is good..

Please stop before you go to far. These are recommendations that have nothing to do with age. Always have a clean, clear and safe area to work. Use the proper tools. Have a place to store all the parts so they don't get lost. It always helps to have someone help you especially if they have some...

That info will be in the Factory Service Manual.

You are only showing the alternator but you said the same belt drives the a/c compressor. Is the slippage when the a/c is on or all the time regardless of the a/c being on ? Have you checked with a straight edge for proper pulley alignment ? Are the grooves on the aftermarket pulleys the same...

If this is your first A/C service experience, seek some one with the proper equipment like a good vacuum pump, gauges, scale, etc..orings are a different matrerial as well. It would also be a great time to replace the hoses as they are also different internally from R134 systems.

What are you really concerned about ? What aftermarket systems in particular did you not like and why ? A lot of money/time was put into these "systems" to make sure they perform well. There are differences in the old, oem R12 system and the current (for now) R-134. They operate at different...

Sorry, wrong link. Here is the correct one. What car are you putting this into and is itstill factory stock ? Or does it have aluminum block? heads? radiator? https://motorcareguys.com/what-is-the-difference-between-hoat-coolant-and-oat-coolant/

I would do the flush. What is the worst thing that can happen ? You spend a few dollars and you know the system is good. Peace of mind for me...

It also depends on how good you want your a/c system to work. The modern aftermarket kits from Vintage Air and others are 100% more effective than the older style.

I use a Refractometer to check strength. 50% mix unless you live in very cold climate areas. There is a difference in recommended coolant types for iron block/heads and aluminum block/heads/radiators. Modern engines generally HOAT type coolant...