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Just don't forget the obvious. You will need a longer oil pickup that just touches the bottom of the pan.

That is true. I don't know if it is a driveway pan change or an engine stand pan change. Just saying, it will only be the first oil/filter change once, after that there will be oil in other area's.

I disagree. In the real world you would check the oil After the engine has run as some oil will stay in the lifters, filter and on the top of the heads and in the valley area. Install 7 qts, plus the filters capacity, start, run til warmed up, shut off, wait a few minutes check the stick. Mark...

Never assume anything I have learned, The hard way a lot of times.

Simple to just remark your stick. Do it after you run the engine first.

The carb only needs to be open when you run it. Injectors, velocity stacks, hood scoops all have covers available.

So did someone else install and degree the cam or did you just install it straight up and not know the specs ? If not degreed, did you check for valve clearance ?

Tires are your only contact with the track whether you are accelerating or braking. Your horsepower and brakes rely totally on your tires. The most under-rated part of a car and the most important. Nothing matters if the tires don't grab the road.

Paul is having a new car built locally in So.Cal. and is involved in the new " Direct Connection" revival. Still a bundle of energy. He has always used a built Torque-flite. His company was Rossi Racing Transmissions. He got those wheels up launches with his own technique. The Seventies is...

Chrysler has built Millions of engines that way for many decades. But they are not Racing engines. They are passenger cars needing to have a factory warranty for many 10,000 of thousands mixed purpose miles. Just like buying anything custom, you can get whatever you are willing to pay for...

Stock brakes are not good enough when it takes your car 110 feet to stop and you only have 100 feet until you hit something....

Use only for non-stressed applications and mainly on the front of the vehicle to help weight bias.

A lot of KY and go easy the first couple times...

If you are asking in what order to make alignment adjustments, you should definitely take it somewhere. The Factory Service Manual gives you the basic procedures. There is a lot to take into consideration when doing a proper alignment. Tire sizes, ride height, front to rear attitude, etc...Bump...

Why not contact the pros. Arrington, Barton, Mazzolini, Indy, etc... They know the whole combo . Power is more than a cylinder head.

My first question is, does your car have 2 brake lines coming off the master or only 1 ? That will give the first part of the answer of what direction to go in.

The numbering used on tire sizing is for a static tire. No load on it. A road race tire and a drag race tire can be the same sizing but the tires will change shapes differently under loads. Depends on how the tire carcass is designed/constructed. Sizing doesn't tell you that. Only static...

Catalog spec is 11.9 " when mounted on an 8" rim. Recommended widths are 8" or 10" .

It may be 50 years old but that doesn't mean that it is out of date really. Some guys still use points. Fuel and air are still just that Make sure that your components, connections are in good condition and " don't fix it if it works"

Edelbrock has a manifold height chart.