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Mmmm actually I remember have seen this acc being sourced in the batt side of the ammeter on diagrams, straight at the amm stud, but is a puntual power source moment, not a constant sucker. Could I be wrong? Maybe but is just what I remember right now.

I Was missed this thread! Is amazing that still showing the facts still there are persistent ppl thinking the batt is the correct source for acc!! On a side note: Actually since 72 there is a source on B bodies at least for the run circuit on fuse box which is in fact fused… for the seatbelt...

330… same than 2nd gen Charger hood bulbs

In run, the box gets the power spliced before the ballast, so gets 12 volts. Coil gets the power after the ballast. On the side with brown wire. This mean it could be any voltage between 4 and 9 volts… or something like that, depending on temp and load sucked by the coil while engine is...

No, from the ballast while in run, but straight from ign switch (bypassing ballast) while cranking.

Without dissasembly it? With a drill. Dissasembling? Tipically is held by a clip on the opossite side of the gear. Remove it and then turn by hand each wheel, althought it can be somehow tricky. Then reinstall.

I have been to remove the pulley from my alts with a regular “two arms” universal puller grabbing from sides of pulley, but just able to do it if they isn’t too tight, because if pulley is stuck on shaft will get bent. It happened once to me.

Unless the squareback unit is able and proveed to provide more amps to get more juice from it, I can’t see a reason for an alt replacement. Fix/service an alt is easy and cheap, specially the bearings. Now, if you were to upgrade the full system with the matching elect reg which is proveed to...

Mmm if everything is correctly sourced (alt side) the only moment you should get a steady charge reading is after a long time discharge period, like after the cranking moment. The longer the discharge stage or rate was, the longer will be the opposite. Althought the starter motor load is not...

That’s what I say when I still don’t know ANYBODY regretting that alt upgrade. But a correction: Thinner stator no, wider in fact. Just the previous visible area is not anymore visible down the redesigned case. The windings are wider, not so much the iron nucleus. Case is wider in both senses...

Being a 76, it must get a Shunted ammeter/charging system, so the batt charge/discharge load is not going anymore through the bulkhead, but still the upgrade will keep everything healthier. Check the power path up to the cab thought.

Normal doesn’t mean desireable. Even less on actual driving conditions &/or cities. Into the country could be diff because a car iddling could be not the regular stage like at constant traffic light stops and transit. It is/was also normal get burnt the bulkhead, specially at alt path (not so...

Check the stickied thread on this section of the board. The higher amps running throught the wiring is relative. Your car will suck the same amps no matter how much output gets from any of the sources (alt or batt) depending on how many accs you have turned on. A bigger amps capacity to source...

I was editing and adding that info on my reply while you were replying LOL…

As mentioned is backwards… althought the only issue with reversed wires is also a reverse reading To OP… if the car was working with the mentioned red and black wires ( both 12 gauge ) untill now with the ammeter, both are still positive, just one coming from batt and the other from main splice...

Or simply a propper service job on a not anymore daily driven car like someday in the past was? Most of the times that is enough, less job headaches and cheaper. My 74 is/was a daily driver car untill dissasembled for a deep body job (REEEAAALLY A DAILY DRIVEN car, on a heavy transit city with...

if you have doubts about coil resistances measurement. And a reference chart I found around… pretty sure more available searching

Ok I didn’t read with a detail on every reply, just a quick pass over the thread… just two things to say from my point of view… first: The yellow wire on that diagram is not correct for pre 75 or 76 cars. On earlier cars the wire arriving there is brown coming from ign switch as IGN2 signal...

Althought the top plate changed between 72 and 73 years ( laters with the black tower on plate as far I recall due a redesign on the parking system ) it seems can be interchanged