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Put a dial indicator on a lifter and measure. With a degree wheel you could get durations too.

Sounds like either the governor or 1-2 shift valve is sticky. I say sticky because it works ok after warm up, if it were galled it would be a problem all the time. I’d flush the thing and replace the fluid and filter. If it doesn’t fix it you’re probably due for a rebuild.

I’ve re-drilled the front mount for a lower hole. Keeps the mild arch of the factory spring without the crappier handling of the superstocks or higher arch springs. Also costs less if the current springs are good.

There’s a difference between break in and ongoing running. Also a difference between high lift and stiff springs and a stock 304. Metals have become better in general with exceptions in China sometimes. These cams aren’t mainstream any more, expertise has gone down and we’re generations away...

The speedos tend to be wrong to begin with. The charts can be sorta close. Quick rule of thumb is that for factory-ish size tires us the rear gear ratio. 3.23, use 32, 3.91, use 39 etc. that’ll get you in the ballpark. Important part after that… put it in and use a gps app to measure some...

I don’t see why. If it were a bigger cam and you were trying to get back a tiny bit of bottom end then maybe. This is already mild, should be a tire burner as-is without any help.

Did that! In a buttery soft Aluminum VW Beetle head no less. What works after that is a carbide burr in a dremel. Hogged it all out with plenty of room for a helicoil.

Any crappy auto parts store will sell bolt removers. Fits in a tap wrench and sort of has a left hand thread kinda shape. Drill a little hole in the broken theeaded rod and wind this in. It should come out. You have the benefit of this not being rust encrusted or stuck in there for some super...

Now you’ve done it. You’ll hear all about the quality of today’s lifters and cam blanks, then about ZDDP, then various analysis of what the OP did wrong etc. most of this stuff is at least partially true, (possibly not including the OP mistake part). Sometimes the materials seem suspect...

Done it many times. A little cutting and welding (very little) and it’s a simple job. Challenge is gathering all the parts and making sure your crankshaft has an accepable pilot hole.

Interesting. Sorta makes sense. I’ve built plenty of machinery using same-same materials with less lubrication that has run for decades. The galling thing / common metals I’ve only seen with soft metals, SS being the worst.

Just curious. A couple people have mentioned special gears for roller cams. Why? This takes power -from- the cam and powers the oil pump and spins the distributor. Do roller cams require special oil pumps? It would seem that the pump-viscosity would be the driver of need for a more durable gear.

If you’re in there frequently the full floaters are great. Easy to work with etc. If you have an engine that is to be left alone for 100000 miles, the lack of pin motion in the rod is one less place to have wear and trouble. It also has fewer parts and costs less. No other magic I know of.

If you use your oven you know the temp. As for centering, you shouldn’t be able to make the pin break past the radius of the piston when shifting the rod back and forth. For the jig, remember the rod will be all the way to one side.

I’ve done this using the oven in the kitchen while the wife was out. Made up a fixture to stop the pin at the right point. Put the pins in the freezer too. Went pretty well. One pin stopped early so I used a press to nudge it the last little bit. No magic here, just CTE and care with the heat...

Interesting how we agonize over tiny differences in filters yet generations had none at all. Heck volkswagens didn’t get them ever in the beetle. Engines I’ve seen without them seemed to just wear down quicker, nothing too exciting. The screen isn’t a bad thing in the right application.

That’s clever! Is this a passage from the oil gallery ring to the center of the lifter and another lengthwise leaving the face somewhere? Seems like even a little hole would bleed off a lot of oil and pressure x16. Have you done it before?

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1970/dodge/charger/parts/mn2013.html

Classic Industries claims to have the hydraulic version in stock.

The fully grooved mains will suck up a lot more oil volume without much, or any, benefit. You probably want the high volume pump. If you’ll be going to high RPMs a bigger pan is probably a good idea.