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Many people don’t know that this stuff simply evaporates too (very slowly). If there’s a little leak in the rubber seal over the reservoir it’ll just evaporate away over the course of a year or two. Had a ‘55 C1B pickup for a decade or so. That was before the rubber seal. The filler plug had a...

Changing that ratio isn’t so easy. Going higher would mean connecting to the pedal arm higher and therefore placing the master cylinder higher. The way this is normally done yields the same result but instead is achieved by going to a smaller bore master cylinder. A 6:1 pedal vs a 4:1 pedal...

33 Imp has the right idea. Thought on the Dodge you mention. Did it have late B body springs? Would have pushed the wheels back. E body would be 1” back. Rear side would have still been the right length with the E body.

Do you mean on the pedal end? The ‘64’s have that projection to bump the brake light switch. A later rod might need something to add length to do the same.

No myth. This was around ‘88. Pretty clean, no rot RR. 383-4sp. Air grabber. Some fool had put a sunroof into it! That took some work (and a patch from the roof of a charger that @chargervert was parting out). But no kidding the rear shock mount was destroyed. Based on your experiences maybe...

Had a ‘69 roadrunner where the rear shock mount was completely destroyed by these. Cut the support out of a ‘69 charger R/T we were cutting up and welded it in as a replacement. No myth.

The bore of the MC won’t do it. Bigger would be firmer anyway. If you’ve got mushy you’ve got air or a bad rubber hose. Some very small chance of something else but all improbable.

Superstock springs with a factory (non extended) hanger?

Those new dual 8” boosters are junk. The most common problem is the pedal sticking down when hot but pick your issue after that. I’m on #3 (warranty replacements) and this one sorta sucks less. When I get around to it I’m putting a factory booster in.

It should be only one, not both for .25 degree.

.025 degrees would offset the front end about .050”. This is nothing. Leave it alone. I’d question if that’s even within the tolerance of the measurement. Sure, when you see a car “crab walk” down the road and can visually pick out an inch or two, that’s a real issue. .025? I defy anyone to see...

Right up until the drums fade when you stop hard from a higher speed. The 11’s are better for sure but I’ve had all of them and the drums all fade when you work them hard. They also are more prone to locking. I’d certainly keep them on the rear though.

I used Leeds. They work very well. Actually readily available ‘67 mustang rotors and calipers. Use a factory booster though. Leeds and many others use a modern aftermarket dual 8” booster with a design flaw, they get sticky when hot.

Yep. You’ll run out of positive caster before 2.5 with stock bushings. Go as high as possible keeping the sides the same. I’d keep the rest of the alignment specs same as factory.

It won’t fatigue the metal but I completely agree, don’t cut unless required!

There’s usually a phenolic boss that sticks out the back of the booster that goes through here. Real question is does that fit through?

On an earlier car I found it easier to change the column shaft alone than deal with painting etc on the whole column. Double row pulley Belt Make sure you have the right year-compatible pump so the pulleys line up. Box Hoses I see pittman arm mentioned. Do some research here, maybe ‘72 does...

China strikes again. Some stuff from there does what it needs to but when their copycat model doesn’t work (metallurgy being one) it makes for junk. For a few years I was in charge of all engineering for a line of flatbed laser cutters. Supply chain bought bearings from regular USA bearing...

That’s interesting, thanks Kern! I went and looked it up, interesting stuff. I’m betting the driving experience with these varies a lot based on the quality of the roads we drive. Most of the roads I go on are quite good so I would likely notice less than people in some places. The digressive...

Interesting. I have KYB in mine, rides very nicely, handles exceptionally well and that's with stock HD springs.