Search results for query: *

Another data point... When all that "on road" and longevity stuff didn't matter. '64 Max Wedge initial: 10° All-in mechanical: 32-36 at 2060 rpm(crank) no vac

These are interesting insights. Warranty and law enforcement certainly aren’t things that were initially coming to my mind but doubtless they played a part here.

Bob, I agree. But in 64? I guess they has a PCV by then but harly anything else. And even at that, the huge difference between a 361 and a 413 in a 300K? There was clearly a reason, I’m not grasping why though.

Ok, I won’t argue that. Still fits with the original question. There’s a Looong way between these different factory figures and all seem low. Kinda guessing it was a place where they would run well enough with minimal BS. Just seems like a lot to be left on the table and I’m curious how these...

I was looking at some factory distributor and timing specs and just can’t figure out why these were done this way. Some are pre-emissions so I don’t buy that as a reason. Anyway, most of us would agree that a B or RB wedge does best at 38*, some might argue less and that’s fine. So we look at...

That’s been about my experience, just based on a smaller set of cars. Not many out there. Tested mine the other day and it works great. Also figured out that the different models dodge, chrysler, imperial (other than for the 880) are the same except for the knobs.

My car runs fine without it. I’ve done A/B testing though and found 2+ MPG difference in mileage and less propensity to run hot. I think that’s why the factory did it too.

In this case I have the radio and no bezel, however I have a good 3d printer and Solidworks, plus a few extra AM bezels. With a little work It’ll look legit.

That’s what I do. Just sometimes don’t feel like dealing with it. Figured that I have the AM/FM so I’d put it in.

Swapping in a year-correct AM/FM to the ‘64 Sport Fury and it’s occurring to me that I can’t remember many of these at all. How common were they 1/50?

Yes. Battery still charged for the most part. Needle just bounced all the time. Swapped the regulator and no improvement. Then swapped to a rebuilt alternator and it became perfectly steady again.

Had a “good” alternator do this last summer. Put on a new one and it’s fine.

Was going through a ‘67 Chrysler 300 I had bought (around 1984) Had a 22 magnum cartridge stuffed in one of the fuse spots. I guess I would have known if it went over current.

Ported advance existed decades before emissions.

Yeesh. I’d still check it with an indicator before you button back up. This is obviously horrendous but even 4 degrees will change the behavior.

You don’t need to tear into it to check cam CL. Just pop off the drivers side valve cover and use a dial indicator. Degree wheel is nice but I’ve done this successfully with a sharpie and a tape measure. Part of the job is already done now that you know the timing mark on the balancer is correct.

Seems like a lot of initial timing, cam doesn’t seem that big. Might want to check cam CL. Sounds like it might be retarded a bit.

It may be normal but worn alternators will do this more than good ones. Just fixed this myself. Tach was jumpy, lights did as you described. Took the alternator apart, polished the copper rings and replaced the brushes. Nice and steady now. Common issue.

I put one on my car for about 15 minutes before I took it back off. Was hooked up properly and everything. Just was kinda weak and intermittent. And no I’m not a hack.

Could you snap a picture?